ALP Setup Guide Part 3: Proper Head Placement

In the last section we covered what areas of our vehicle a police officer will target with their lidar guns: Headlights/taillights, grill, and license plates. Knowing this, we need to make sure that our laser jammers fully protect these target areas.

Front Installs

Lidar jammer heads each cover an oval shaped area of the car with a diameter of about 24 inches. For the most effective performance, you should try to space them out no more than 24″ from one another. Knowing this, here’s a look at what two jammers placed on opposite ends of the upper grill would look like in terms of coverage area.

Coverage that two laser jammer heads provide

Coverage that two laser jammer heads provide

This is a textbook dual head setup. You can see the two heads themselves (the green rectangles in the grill) and the coverage they provide (the green ovals). You can see that they’re covering all the main target areas including the headlights, grill, front plate, and even down to the foglights.

Sometimes the grill makes it a piece of cake to install your heads. Sometimes some drilling and cutting may be required. Here’s a look at the dual head setup on my Miata. I’m not comfortable hacking up my own car so I had a professional do the work.

Dual ALP's in the grill of a Miata

Dual ALP’s in the grill of a Miata

Allow me to explain a few key points of why this placement works.

  • They’re far out enough to cover the headlight/foglight area.
  • They’re close in enough to provide sufficient coverage for center mass / front plate shots.
  • They’re up high enough so that as you first start to crest a hill, your heads are able to see over the hill too.

On some cars it might be far more convenient to mount the heads down lower. BMW’s with their vertical grill slats are a great example.

BMW M3 Dual Head Setup

BMW M3 Dual Head Setup

One of the nice things about ALP’s is that their increased sensitivity means that we can get away with placement options like this that we weren’t able to before with earlier generation jammers. This used to be a no go before and while installing higher would be ideal, this install would still perform well in practice.

The normal heads need to be mounted horizontally which is why they need to be mounted in the lower air intake. They won’t fit horizontally in the vertical grill slats. However, if you use a Tx head in the center of the vehicle, you can install the normal heads vertically.

Two standard heads installed vertically with Tx head in center

  • Standard heads must always be installed horizontally when not using a Tx head
  • When using a Tx head, standard heads may (but don’t have to be) installed vertically
  • Tx head should always be in the center of the vehicle
  • Tx head should be at least 20″ above the ground to minimize reflections off the road ahead of you
  • Tx head should be at least 8″ away from a normal head to prevent interference

If the car is larger or wider, two heads may not be sufficient to cover the entire area of the vehicle so 3 heads would be required, especially if you have a front plate far from the headlight area. Here are standard configurations for triple head setups.

Wide Stingray with Triples

Wide Corvette Stingray with Triples

In this install the two outer heads are spaced farther apart and the central head covers the middle area.

ALP triple on front of McLaren 570S by JK Automotive

ALP triple on front of McLaren 570S (thx JK Automotive)

A similar idea works well for larger SUV’s and trucks. I’ve seen people get away with 2 heads on some SUV’s and it works fine since the ALP’s are quite sensitive, but 3 heads are generally the way to go.

Jeep triple head install

Jeep triple head install (thx @NickCartunesAtl)

In general you’ll want the 3 heads in line with one another, especially if you don’t have a front plate. Sometimes it’s not convenient to put the center head in line such as when you have a vehicle badge in the center of your grill.

Triple Head Setup on a Truck

Triple Head Setup on a GMC Truck

If that’s the case, it’s okay to drop the center head down a little bit. +/- 6″ up or down is a good rule of thumb. A slightly lower center head can also help make sure you have your front plate covered well too, if applicable.

If you encounter the DragonEye, you can replace the center head with a Tx sensor.

ALP Triple with center Tx head on an SUV (thx @BestRadarDetectors)

The Tx head has to be mounted at least 20″ above the ground to prevent reflections from the road up ahead. This is only an issue for sports cars that are lower to the ground and in that situation, if you have a wide but low sports car (like the red Corvette up above), you’re better off with 3 standard heads, even if you encounter the DragonEye.

If you don’t face the DragonEye you’re better off with 3 normal heads on a larger vehicle too.

Otherwise, if you face the DragonEye and you have the ability to mount a Tx head at least 20″ off the ground, go with the Tx head for the center head.

(In case you’re wondering, the ALP supports 3 heads up front max. There’s no way to do 3 normal heads and one Tx head up front for a total of 4 heads or to have multiple Tx heads on one side of the vehicle. Now technically it is possible to do 2 Tx heads up front, but that’s more for a possible future option. There’s currently no benefit to doing 2 Tx heads per side.)

Rear Installs

2 Standard Heads in the Rear

When it comes to rear installs, placement is pretty similar across different vehicles. Most people install just above the license plate towards the tail lights. It’s generally pretty easy to run the wires in through the license plate light area.

Cayenne rear heads

Porsche Cayenne rear head placement

ALP dual on rear of McLaren 570S by JK Automotive

Two ALP heads on rear of McLaren 570S (thx JK Automotive)

With some cars the license plate is way down low, far away from the tail lights. Take a look at the Infiniti G37.

Infiniti G37 rear head locations

Infiniti G37 rear head locations

You’ll see here that the standard placement location in green just above the rear plate is pretty far away from the tail lights.

I’ve seen some cars struggle with this location, especially with earlier generations of jammers, and they’ve sometimes had to go for a higher location like the one shown in orange. They’d attach their jammers to their trunk itself and the heads stuck out the back. It was ugly, but it worked.

With the ALP’s, this is another area where the increased sensitivity helps. The lower location in green is more difficult for the jammers, but it can still work nonetheless. Make sure you test, test, test after you get your system installed! We’ll cover testing towards the end of this guide once you have your system installed and configured.

1 Standard Rear Head, 1 Tx Rear Head

On smaller vehicles that face the DragonEye where you can’t space the two heads really far apart, you could opt to use 1 standard rear head and 1 Tx rear head like this.

However, personally I would feel more comfortable having 2 standard heads in the rear for maximum sensitivity and laser detection and 1 Tx head in the center to really counter the DragonEye.

3 Rear Heads

For larger vehicles that would benefit from having 3 heads in the rear, the ALP CPU only has ports for two rear heads, but there’s a trick to getting 3 heads in the back. You’ll use 2 standard heads and 1 Tx head. The two standard heads will plug into a splitter which plugs into the R1 port. The Tx head will plug into the R2 port.

ALP cable splitter (thx @sschwar2)

Again the Tx head (red) will be in the center and the standard heads (yellow) will be off to either side.

  • Rear Tx head always plugs into R2 port of ALP CPU
  • Standard head or heads always plug into R1 port of ALP CPU

Fine Tuning For Your Specific Vehicle

The sample setups that I’m showing you here are basically designed to show you the ideal placement locations in ideal scenarios. When you take a closer look at your car you may find it tough to install heads here due to the shape and design of the grill, a lack of mounting locations on or behind the grill, not wanting to cut the grill, etc.

I would recommend sticking to these textbook locations as much as possible. That said, some vehicles aren’t jammer friendly and there’s no good way of installing your heads without cutting something up.

Lexus IS350 F Sport with a mesh grill

Lexus IS350 F Sport with a mesh grill

Even with mesh grills it can be done. Some people look into alternate replacement grills with horizontal slats or buy a second one off eBay that they’re more comfortable cutting into. Some people go into their factory grills. That said, it can be made to look good. Check out this install for example on an Audi S6.

Audi S6 dual head setup

Audi S6 dual head setup (thx @S6Per)

I’ve also seen some creative installs where people have fabricated custom brackets to help their jammers blend in with their car better.

Porsche Cayman GT4 custom rear ALP bracket (thx @DeerHunter)

As you can see, each vehicle is different so we can’t say one size fits all, you know?

Getting Specific Recommendations For Your Vehicle

If you need help deciding on the best locations for your vehicle, you can post photos of your car up online on the Laser Jammer Placement Suggestions section of RDF and people will chime in with suggestions. You can also check out photos of other people’s installs in the Show Off Your Install section. (Not everyone installs their jammers well though so you can also take a look at people’s followup comments to see what they think about the installs.)

Now that we have a good idea of placement locations front and rear, let’s take a look at how the heads themselves should be installed to make sure they can properly protect you.

Continue on to Part 4: Proper Head Installation

ALP Setup Guide Sections:

  1. Why go with the AntiLaser Priority?
  2. Deciding how many heads you need
  3. Proper head placement
  4. Proper head installation
  5. Register your system
  6. Update to the latest software
  7. Configure your settings
  8. Get your setup tested
  9. How to use your jammers
  10. Installation & setup checklist

Permanent link to this article:

ALP Setup Guide Part 2: Deciding How Many Laser Heads You Need

In this section we’ll cover how many laser jammer heads you should get for your ALP. Choosing the correct number of heads is vital for solid performance. It also really matters both where you install the heads on your vehicle and how you position the heads. Mess up any of these things and your jammers will not be able to do their job and protect you. Just because you have laser jammers somewhere on your vehicle does not mean that they will work properly! You have to use your tools properly, not just have them on your car.

Installing them properly is one of the most important things I’ll cover in this entire guide so definitely read over this to ensure you know what to buy and how to install your jammers.

In order to know how many laser jammer heads you need on your car and where they should go, you need to first know what the targets are on your vehicle you’re trying to protect.

Lidar Guns Targets on our Vehicles

Police officers are trained to target the areas of the car that are the most reflective and easiest for a lidar gun to get a reading from. Those areas are:

  1. Driver’s side headlight
  2. Center mass (grill or front plate if applicable)
  3. Passenger’s side headlight
Lidar targets on vehicle: How many AntiLaser Priority heads

Lidar targets on a vehicle

Modern lidar guns are able to get a reading off of any part of the vehicle, not just the shiny parts. This includes the bumper, foglights, blacked out non-chrome grills, etc. However, installing our laser jammers such that they are ideally suited to protect the 3 primary target areas will also have the effect of protecting the rest of the car too.

How many AntiLaser Priority jammer heads: Police officer shooting a lidar gun

How Many Laser Jammer Heads Do We Need?

Here’s a quick overview of how many heads you need for your vehicle, depending on the type of vehicle you drive, where you drive, and if you want front protection only or both front and rear protection. Some of the newer anti-jamming guns with a variable pulse rate (VPR) will require additional heads.

1 Head

  • Motorcycle, front coverage only, no VPR guns

2 Heads

  • Small to mid-sized cars, front only
  • Motorcycle, front and rear coverage
  • Motorcycle with full protection against VPR guns, front only

3 Heads

  • Mid to large sized vehicles, wide sports cars, trucks, SUV’s, front only

3 Heads: 2 Regular, 1 Tx

  • Front protection for vehicles that encounter the DragonEye guns

4 Heads

  • Front and rear 2/2 protection for small to mid-sized vehicles

5 Heads

  • Full protection for all vehicles against normal guns, front and rear

6 Heads: 2 Regular per side, 1 Tx per side

  • Full protection for all vehicles that encounter the DragonEye guns, 3 front and 3 rear
  • Full protection for larger vehicles like trucks and SUV’s that need 3 heads per side

7 Heads: 2 Regular per side, 2 Tx front, 1 Tx rear

  • Front supports two Tx sensors connected to a splitter (one blue, one green)
  • Primarily an option for future-proofing
  • Generally not necessary today

2 or 3 Heads per side?

The front is the main area most people need to protect and in many parts of the country they only target the front of your vehicle. As for how many heads you need per side of your vehicle, here’s the general rule of thumb:

For small and compact cars, 2 heads will generally provide sufficient protection in many situations. Standard/mid-sized vehicles can often work well with just 2 heads as well, especially against older guns.

Midsize to large cars, including wide sports cars, as well as trucks and SUV’s would need 3 heads to fully protect the front of the vehicle due to their larger target areas.

Against some of the newest variable pulse rate (VPR) lidar guns that are designed specifically to defeat laser jammers, the ALP can defeat some them with just 2 heads, but things improve greatly with a third head in the center of the vehicle and it’s for this reason that if VPR guns are in use where you drive, 3 heads are highly recommended. Watch this video to see an ALP with 3 heads installed on a big truck take care of a deadly VPR gun.

AntiLaser has introduced special Tx (transmitter) heads designed specifically to help address the DragonEye guns even further. You’d use 2 normal heads on the right and left sides with the Tx head in the center.

Are VPR guns used in your area? Well they’re most heavily used in GA and in Edmonton, Canada. In the US they’ve been reported in CO, FL, GA, IA, KS, LA, MA, MD, MI, MO, NV, NY, OH, RI, TN, TX, UT, VA, WV, & WA DC. In Canada they’ve been spotted in B.C., Alberta, Ontario, & Newfoundland. They may also be in use elsewhere and they continue to spread steadily throughout the country. Even if they’re not in your state yet, it would be safest to go for at least 3 heads for peace of mind, especially if you’re gonna be spending the time and energy to get everything installed anyways which can involve removing your bumper, running wires back through your vehicle’s firewall, etc.

In general, I recommend 2 regular heads + 1 Tx head up front.

If you’re looking to protect the rear of a larger vehicle, you’ll also need 3 heads in the back. The way to do 3 heads in the rear is to have two normal heads and one Tx head. You can’t do 3 normal heads in the rear.

If you need to order more heads, I recommend doing so before you start taking off your bumper, running the wires, etc. It’s much easier to do everything all at once. You can purchase more heads here.


AntiLaser PriorityThe ALP’s control box has ports for 3 heads up front. If you’re running only 2 heads up front, make sure you’re using only ports F1 & F2. Don’t plug either head into the F3 port.

If you run 3 heads up front, the center head (normal or rear) MUST be plugged into the F2 port of the CPU. If you’re using a Tx head, the Tx head will be used in place of the normal center head in port F2. It doesn’t matter if the left or right head is in F1 or F3, but the center head must be plugged into the F2 port in order to jam those VPR guns properly.

Rear Protection?

Do you need protection in the rear? Some places shoot only the front, some places shoot both front and rear. In other places they shoot only in the rear. There isn’t really a comprehensive list of what’s in use where. However, most places around the US focus on the front and it’s for that reason that front protection is considered standard and rear is generally considered extra for complete protection.

If you can afford it, I’d recommend front and rear for full protection. It’s a few hundred dollars more for the heads plus a more involved install, but should you encounter rear laser, you’re going to be glad you protected your rear. 😉

If you encounter rear DragonEye shots (Edmonton, Alberta is a perfect example), definitely go for 3 heads in the rear. You’ll use two normal heads and one central Tx head. This will give you maximum protection on both ends of the vehicle.


Since the ALP CPU only has two ports for rear heads, make sure you buy it with the splitter for rear. The two normal rear heads will plug into a splitter which runs into the R1 port and the rear Tx head will plug into the R2 port.

Continue on to Part 3: Proper Head Placement

ALP Setup Guide Sections:

  1. Why go with the AntiLaser Priority?
  2. Deciding how many heads you need
  3. Proper head placement
  4. Proper head installation
  5. Register your system
  6. Update to the latest software
  7. Configure your settings
  8. Get your setup tested
  9. How to use your jammers
  10. Installation & setup checklist

Permanent link to this article:

ALP Setup Guide Part 1: Why AntiLaser Priority?

There’s several different laser jammers on the market. Currently the top pick is the AntiLaser Priority. In this article, we’re going to cover why the ALP is currently the best option as well has how it compares to the other options on the market. There’s a ton of things we could say and there’s lots of little differences, but I’m going to focus on the main stuff that really separates the different jammers.

One of the biggest differences is that some of the previous generation detectors are unable to jam some of the latest lidar guns with anti-jamming technology and some jammer companies are unable to keep up. So while those jammers will work against the older guns which are still widely in use around the country, they’re not exactly future-proof if updates have basically stopped.

If you buy an older product that’s no longer being updated, it may be less expensive in the short term, but once you consider the costs and time it takes to uninstall then reinstall, the fact that you may have to deal with the holes you’ve cut into your vehicle’s interior and exterior and that you can’t just put the new jammer in the same hole, not to mention knowing that you’re driving around with a product that doesn’t work against all the guns in use, you may decide that it’s better to spend a little more money up front and do it right, right out of the gate.

If you’re curious about the other options out there and want to understand the differences, feel free to read over them. If you just want to take my word for it that the ALP’s are the one to get, you can go ahead and skip to the next section. 🙂

Pros & Cons of Different Laser Jammers

Here’s the jammers we’ll be covering, along with the retail pricing for dual head coverage (front of a standard sized car only) as well as quad head coverage (front and rear for a standard sized vehicle).

AntiLaser Priority – Duals $750 – Quads $1,250

Stinger VIP – Triples (3 Tx, 3 Rx) $1,200 – Six Heads (6 Tx, 6 Rx) $2,400

Escort ZR5 / ShifterMax – Duals $849 – Quads $1,499

Blinder HP-905 Compact – Duals $599 – Quads $899

K40 Defuser Optix – Duals $899 – Quads $1,699

Rocky Mountain Radar – $399 or less

AntiLaser Priority

AntiLaser Priority Laser Jammers: Why AntiLaser Priority?

AntiLaser Priority (ALP) Pros

  • Most effective laser jammer on the market.
  • Features the ability to jam every known lidar gun currently on the market, including the newer and tougher guns with anti-jamming technology.
  • Constantly receives updates as new guns are coming out.
  • Excellent customer service available for installation support, fixing problems, and adding new features.
  • Tiny heads for easier and more stealthy installation in your vehicle.
  • More sensitive heads which provides for greater coverage and is more forgiving of imperfect installs or heads moving over time.
  • Optional accessories available like bluetooth, GPS, and radar detector integration for increased functionality.
  • Can differentiate between front and rear lidar shots.
  • Allows for 6 heads per CPU (3 front, 3 rear) which means you can get more protection for larger vehicles without having to buy multiple systems.
  • Can verbally identify which gun you’re shot with
  • Jammer can automatically disable after several seconds
  • Jammer can automatically disable when you drop below a pre-defined speed
  • Transmitter and receiver are integrated in one package so there’s fewer heads to install.
  • Standalone package that can run on its own or alongside any other radar detector.
  • Can integrate with several popular radar detectors to cut down on needing multiple controllers and displays in your cabin.
  • Can easily be switched to parking sensor only mode with laser jammer functionality disabled entirely for banned areas.
  • Easily updatable with a USB drive so you don’t have to bring a whole laptop out to your car.
  • Offers the ability for laser detection only mode so you can kill your jammers as soon as you see the officer, but the jammers can still tell you if you get targeted, how long you’re targeted for, and what gun you’re being shot with.
  • You can use the Bluetooth option to avoid having to run wires through your firewall and into your cabin.
  • You can keep different profiles for jamming mode, parking sensor only mode, etc. and you can switch on the fly.
  • Fantastic customer service.

AntiLaser Priority (ALP) Cons

  • More expensive than older systems.
  • Some options like an external speaker for voice alerts are included for the price with other jammers, but it’s an optional extra with the ALP.
  • While it can integrate with many different radar detectors, you don’t always retain full functionality of different features that you would get if you ran the radar detector standalone, ie. GPS lockouts.
  • GPS lockouts require a phone to work and are sort of manual to create.
  • Bluetooth module limits some functionality of the dedicated control pad.
  • Radar and laser alerts use the same color lights so it can be tougher to immediately tell the difference.

Stinger VIP

Stinger VIP laser jammer heads

Stinger VIP Pros

  • Currently the second best jammers on the market.
  • Very capable jammers that integrate with the Stinger VIP radar system.
  • Very small square-shaped heads.
  • Optional fiber heads which are insanely tiny, offer a stealthier install, and are virtually impossible to see so they’re the best if you’re concerned about the look of your vehicle.
  • Smaller heads mean less of chance that you’ll have to drill into your car to install them.
  • Can jam the newest anti-jamming guns.
  • Can differentiate between front and rear lidar shots.
  • Very active engineering team aggressively working on updates and development.
  • Can install up to 4 Transmit and 4 Receive heads on both sides of the vehicle which means you won’t need to purchase additional CPU’s if you need more heads than a single system will allow.
  • Optional side-facing lasers for ENRADD system used in PA.
  • Only have to run one wire into your vehicle’s cabin, not one for each head like other jammers.
  • Independent transmitters and receivers means you have more control over placement and protection.
  • Offers a customizable and automatic jammer kill option.
  • Updatable via USB.

Stinger VIP Cons

  • More expensive than any other option.
  • Tiny fiber heads are an additional cost over the standard heads.
  • Not a standalone system: Must be integrated with the Stinger VIP radar detector.
  • Software is still under development and being fully refined.
  • Doesn’t offer quite the level of protection and jamming performance as the ALP.
  • Separate transmitters and receivers means you’ll have more individual heads in your grill.
  • Not quite as bulletproof as the ALP.

Escort ShifterMax / ZR5

Escort ShifterMax / ZR5 Pros

  • Jams most of the newer laser guns on the market.
  • Small heads.
  • Integrates with Escort’s radar detectors such as the Max Ci and Max Ci 360, called the ShifterMax.
  • Sold standalone as the ZR5’s and can integrate with windshield mount radar detectors including the Max 360c and Redline EX.
  • Customer service is generally pretty good.

Escort ShifterMax / ZR5 Cons

  • Not able to consistently achieve bulletproof jamming capabilities, you’ll still get punchthroughs while it’s trying to jam.
  • Only supports 4 heads per CPU so you’re limited to 2 front / 2 rear or 4 heads per side.
  • No laser gun identification.
  • Jammers must be killed manually, no automatic jammer disarming functionality.

Blinder HP-905 Compact

Blinder HP-905 Compact laser jammers

Blinder HP-905 Compact (HP-905) Pros

  • Relatively compact heads.
  • Can handle older guns in use all over the country quite well.
  • Can jam some of the early generation anti-jamming guns.
  • Control switch lets you not only kill jammers altogether, but also put them into receive mode.
  • Very easy to switch into parking mode.
  • Offers a customizable and automatic jammer kill option.

Blinder HP-905 Compact (HP-905) Cons

  • Updates have stopped.
  • Hasn’t been updated in years.
  • Doesn’t adequately handle the newest anti-jamming guns.
  • Doesn’t differentiate between front/rear shots.
  • Can’t jam some guns like the Poliscan that other guns can.

K40 Defuser Optix

K40 Defuser Optix

K40 Defuser Optix Pros

  • Can integrate with K40’s (low performing and relatively overpriced) radar detectors.
  • Effective against older laser guns.
  • Offers automatic jammer disarming after 5 seconds.
  • Better than their previous G5 jammers.
  • Great customer service.

K40 Defuser Optix Cons

  • Not effective against newer laser guns.
  • Relies on dated hardware.
  • Pricier than the competition.
  • Only supports up to 5 heads total.

Rocky Mountain Radar

RMR Judge

Rocky Mountain Radar (RMR) Pros

  • Costs less than anything else.

Rocky Mountain Radar (RMR) Cons

  • Complete and utter garbage product. I’m not kidding.
  • It doesn’t actually jam (aka “scramble”) lidar at all. Totally ineffective product that does nothing in practice.
  • They prey on unsuspecting users who don’t know any better and believe their inaccurate claims.

So as you can see, some jammers are really good, others are kind of in the middle, and some just suck. The standard recommendation these days is to go for the ALP. Some go for the Stinger VIP’s if they want the tiniest heads possible, something that’s especially popular among exotic cars, and some people run the Escort jammers if they’re using Escort’s remote mount Max Ci or Max Ci 360 radar detectors. However, if you’re going for a new system these days, the ALP is the way to go.

You can purchase your ALP’s at

There’s also a number of different helpful accessories available as I mentioned. You can learn about the ALP accessories here.

Continue on to Part 2: Deciding How Many Heads You Need 

ALP Setup Guide Sections:

  1. Why go with the AntiLaser Priority?
  2. Deciding how many heads you need
  3. Proper head placement
  4. Proper head installation
  5. Register your system
  6. Update to the latest software
  7. Configure your settings
  8. Get your setup tested
  9. How to use your jammers
  10. Installation & setup checklist

Permanent link to this article:

Escort Redline Radar Detector Review

Escort Redline Review

The Escort Redline is the longest range windshield mount radar detector you can get. It’s the standard that other detectors are measured against when it comes to long distance range. It’s for this reason that it’s very popular among driving enthusiasts, especially people who drive on the highway. The filtering is dated at this point and there’s no GPS functionality available, but you can add that by pairing it with your phone.

You can watch my Escort Redline review video above for complete information, as well as a head-to-head comparison with some of the other toughest competitors (Radenso Pro SE, Valentine One, Max360, Max2, Magnum, STi-R Plus, 9500ci, and Stinger VIP) to get a good feel for the Redline.

Escort Redline Review: Buy Now

Note: The Escort Redline has since been discontinued and replaced by the Redline EX. You can read my Redline EX review here.

Permanent link to this article:

Selecting a Dedicated Android Phone for YaV1

If you’re looking for an Android phone for YaV1, here’s what you need to know.

First off, it’s pretty straightforward. Most any modern Android phone should work just fine with the app. What’s generally recommended to do is to get an inexpensive prepaid phone and simply never activate it. Your YaV1 phone does not need internet. You download the app at home over WiFi and when driving, the phone only needs GPS (free) to know where it is and Bluetooth (free) to communicate with the V1.

You will need to purchase the V1C (V1 bluetooth module) for Android to pair your V1 with YaV1 as well as have a new enough V1 (version 3.892 or newer). Note: There’s two versions of the V1C. There’s the Android-only V1C and the V1C LE which was originally designed just for the iPhone but now is compatible with Android as well. However, YaV1 is ONLY compatible with the Android-only V1C so you’ll still want to get the V1C and not the V1C LE.

Once you buy the phone, there’s no monthly costs after that. Here’s a list of prepaid phones you can buy from Amazon. Currently I’m using the LG Optimus Exceed 2. It is inexpensive and works perfectly. It has a standard 4.5″ screen which is just right for me plus it’s rootable which isn’t necessary for YaV1, but it allows me to control the phone a bit more for other things. Newer phones are always coming out though so really any modern phone should work fine, but this is what I’ve been using for a while.

If you want to use any apps on your phone that require internet service (ie. Waze, Google Maps, etc.), if you have another device that has data service and you can enable tethering on it, you can use that device to give your Android internet service via WiFi and now your Android can get internet access too.

(YaV1 does have some features that would require internet access such as viewing your logs on Google Maps, but these are all just secondary bonus features. The app itself is designed to run without needing internet.)

As far as cell phone mounts, most any universal mount should work fine. I’m using the RAM X-Grip mount and it works great as a nice strong mount. You’ll see the Exceed 2 featured in my cell phone mount review too.

Finally, once you get your phone, here’s the tutorial to help you get up and running quickly.

Enjoy! 🙂

Permanent link to this article:

Itronics ITB-100HD Dashcam Review

For the past few years I’ve been running the Itronics ITB-100HD dashcam. Two of them actually, front and rear.

They’re solid cameras, I love the stealthy matte black finish, that it uses larger and easier to manage SD cards, the image quality is pretty good, and the included GPS functionality is a great benefit.

I’m looking at upgrading the camera now to go from 24fps to 30fps, get even better image quality, and ideally hold cards bigger than 32gb for less card swapping needed for long road trips. 🙂

Here’s a video review of the camera, along with a bug of sample video to illustrate different points.

At the end I’ll also take you on a journey with me across some of the most beautiful things I’ve seen with it over the past few years. 🙂 Enjoy!

Purchase the Itronics ITB-100SPW on Amazon.

Recommended 32 gig SD Card.

ITB-100HD dashcam

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Stinger VIP 10% Off Coupon Code

The Stinger VIP is a top of the line radar detector. It offers long range performance, is excellent at filtering out those annoying blind spot falses, plus it adds GPS to filter out stationary false alerts from speed signs and grocery stores. So you get both longe range and many ways of filtering out false alerts, all in one package.

It can also alert you to redlight cameras and speed cameras, has support for front and rear antennas to give you directional information, is fully immune from being detected by radar detector detectors, and can even detect the low powered MRCD (helpful overseas and in Edmonton) which makes it more future-proof.

You also have the ability to integrate it with Stinger’s laser jammers. Their jammers, especially the tiny optional fiber optic transmitters, are the smallest and least noticeable jammers available.

The detector had some issues initially, but Stinger’s engineers have been hard at work perfecting the system and making it the ultimate radar detector on the market. A recent firmware update has addressed most all of the major bugs. There are a few things that will be coming in upcoming firmware updates like improvements to the arrows and laser jamming performance, but it is now the most feature-packed high performance radar detector available on the market today.

They’re available for sale directly from Stinger USA at

Stinger VIP Coupon Code

You can save 10% on the Stinger VIP by entering in the coupon code “VortexRadar” (all one word).

Stinger VIP Coupon Code VortexRadar

Once you do that, it’ll take 10% off the price of the radar detector, plus anything else you add like a rear antenna, laser jammers, etc.

Stinger VIP Coupon Code

Buy now:

Enjoy! 🙂

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Stinger VIP Menu Options Explained

This video shows you the Stinger VIP interface and walks you through the Stinger VIP menu options and settings.

If you’d like to read over the list of menu options and what everything does, read the discussion on RDF.

You can purchase a Stinger VIP at and save 10% with the coupon code “VortexRadar.”

Stinger VIP Menu Options

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ThreatLink: Escort Live crossed with Waze

There’s a new radar detector app available for Escort and Beltronics detectors called ThreatLink. It’s basically a cross between Escort Live and Waze and it can now take Waze alerts and display them onto your detector just like Live would do. Awesome. 🙂

Note: The app was eventually taken down because it used the Waze icon and so it’s back with a new name. It’s now called Escargot Drive.

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How Laser Jammers Work

Are you wondering how laser jammers work? Once you watch my video on how lidar guns work, here’s a series of videos to explain how laser jammers work.

How Smart Laser Jammers Work

This first video explains how jammers that use lookup tables (ie. AntiLaser Priority, Blinder HP-905, Laser Interceptor, Escort Laser ShifterPro, Escort ZR5/ShifterMax) work.

Continue reading

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