How to Program and Set Up Your Uniden R1 and Uniden R3 Radar Detector

Uniden R3If you have a Uniden R1 or Uniden R3, you can change the settings to give yourself better performance, filter out more false alerts, change the display color to match your vehicle’s interior, and basically tweak it to what you prefer.

Now there’s no universal “best” settings for everyone of course since what’s best depends on where you drive and even your own personal preferences. That’s why they gave us options. 🙂

You can download the R1 manual or the R3 manual and read over the details. Rather than just duplicating the manual here, in this article I want to go into a bit more explanation so you can better understand the benefits of the different settings, their pros and cons, and which one you should choose. At the very end, I’ll share with you the settings that I run. 🙂

Functions of All the Different Buttons:

Uniden R1 and Uniden R3

  • Power: Turn the detector on or off
  • Menu: Enter into the settings menu
    • (R3 only) Long press will change between Highway / City / Advanced modes
  • Vol -: Reduce the volume
    • Go backwards through the menu options
  • Vol +: Increase the volume
    • Go forwards through the menu options
  • Mute / Dim:
    • Mute: Press once during any alert to mute the alert
    • Lock out a false alert: (R3 only) Press twice during a stationary X or K band false alert to teach the detector that this is a false alert. It will remember this signal and automatically mute it for you in the future. (You can lock out Ka band alerts too if you enable the option in the menu first.)
    • Delete a RLC or Speed Camera: (R3 only) Long press during a red light camera or speed camera alert and it will prompt you to delete that particular alert from the detector’s database and not alert you to it again. Short press once to confirm. Watch a video demo.
    • Adjust brightness: Press and hold when no alert is present to change the display brightness
      • Bright
      • Dim
      • Dimmer
      • Dark: Display is disabled and only lights up when an alert is present. When no alert is present, there will be a blinking dot that moves around in the bottom of the screen so you can verify that the detector is on. Watch a video demo.
      • Off: Display and buttons are completely turned off at all times, giving you a fully blacked out detector at all times. Your audio will play normally still, of course.
      • Auto (R3): Automatically adjust between a brighter display during the day and a darker display at night.
  • Mark (R3): Manually mark this location so that your detect alerts you every time you come back by it. Useful to mark locations that you know are regularly used as speed traps, for example.
  • City (R1): Change between Highway / City / Advanced modes

Video Walkthrough

If you’d like a video walkthrough of the settings and programming the detectors, here they are for both detectors.

Note: Newer firmware versions have added some additional features so be sure to read through this guide if you see any settings in your detector that you don’t see covered in these videos.

Settings & Menu Options:

Highway / City / Advanced

This lets you dial back the sensitivity of K band and X band to reduce false alerts around town. Ka band is always unaffected.

Highway: Full sensitivity on Ka, K, and X band.

City: Full sensitivity on Ka band, reduced sensitivity on K and X band.

Advanced: You can individually dial back the sensitivity on X, K, or Ka band anywhere from 100% sensitivity to 30% sensitivity in 10% increments. Helpful if you’re getting too much range and want to dial back the performance. (City Mode would be the equivalent of X/K dialed back to ~18% sensitivity which is even lower than what you can select in Advanced mode so City mode is the lowest sensitivity option.)

For K band testing between Highway and City mode, see here.

GPS (R3 only)

Turn the R3’s GPS-related features on or off.

Speed Camera (R3 only)

Alert you to speed cameras ahead.

Redlight Cam (R3 only)

Alert you to redlight cameras ahead.

RLC Q-Ride (R3 only)

High speed muting for redlight cameras. This is useful for muting RLC alerts on nearby surface streets when you’re driving down the highway.

Note: If you’d like to delete an individual RLC/speedcam alert and prevent it from coming back again in the first place, double press the mute button when the alert is on screen and you will delete that particular camera from your detector’s database.

Voice

Voice announcements for radar and laser alerts (ie. “Ka band”) to make it easier to identify different bands by sound. This is especially useful while you’re learning what the beeps for each individual band sound like.

Ka Freq Voice

Verbally announces the exact frequency of Ka band radar alerts. Useful for identifying the frequency of the Ka band signal without needing to look at the display. The detector will beep normally for a  moment, announce the frequency, and then resume alerting.

X Band

Enable or disable X band.

X band has been mostly phased out around the country. It’s still actively in use in OH and NJ and a few small areas around the country.

To find out what bands are in use in your area, click here.

K Band

Enable or disable K band.

K band is in use virtually everywhere around the country. The notable exception is virtually all of CA where you can disable K band and cut off the false alerts you’d otherwise have to deal with using the detector’s filters.

To find out what bands are in use in your area, click here.

Ka Band

Enable or disable Ka band.

This is a very common police radar band and it’s in use nationwide. Definitely best to leave this on.

Laser

Enable or disable alerts when you get shot by laser.

K POP

67 ms K band POP detection.

K band POP is virtually nonexistent in real life and it’s best to leave this turned off for reduced false alerts. However, turning in on (and disabling the K Filter altogether) will give you maximum performance on K band since the detector is constantly scanning for brief K band now. This won’t be a good idea in most situations due to the increased false alerts, but if you’re out in the middle of nowhere and require the absolute maximum detection possible on K band, you can turn this on.

If you’d like to see a demo of K POP detection on the R3, click here.

MRCD

The MultaRadar CD and CT are low powered radar guns that are primarily used overseas. However, we are now seeing them here in Alberta, Quebec, NYC, and in MD near D.C. If you enable MRCD detection, you will be able to detect these radar sources. Video demo.

Ka POP

67 ms Ka band POP detection.

Ka band POP is also nearly nonexistent in real life so it’s generally better to turn this off. Testing has also shown that POP on reduces Ka range.

K Filter

Filter out blind spot false alerts from other nearby vehicles. Definitely run with this on.

Ka Filter

Filter out false alerts on Ka band. Turning this on does affect performance, but only in a very minor way. It slows down reactivity by about 0.1s, so not much at all. Even with it on, the detector is still very fast. It has much less of an impact to performance than Escort’s RDR or the V1’s Ka Guard does. If you’d like maximum performance, turn this off.

TSF

The traffic sensor filter is designed to filter out K band traffic sensors along the highway in some areas. Enabling it does slow down reactivity quite a bit on K band so it’s generally recommended to leave it off. However, if you have traffic sensors on your highways and experience regular and repeated K band falses from them, turn TSF on.

K Wide / Narrow

This gives you the option to slightly narrow the range of frequencies that the detectors scans for on K band, potentially cutting out some false alerts. For example, Honda/Acura BSM’s often transmit between 24.198-24.206ish so K Narrow will help filter out some, but not all of them.

Police officers are allowed to transmit throughout the entire range that K Wide covers so if K band is actively used in your area, it’s best to run with K Wide.

  • K Wide : 24.050 – 24.250 GHz
  • K Narrow: 24.080 – 24.200 GHz

Ka Wide / Narrow / Segmentation

Alert to all the entire Ka band spectrum or only the Ka frequencies where police generally operate on.

  • Ka Wide: 33.4 GHz – 36.0 GHz
  • Ka Narrow: 33.8 +/- 100 MHz, 34.7 +/- 120 MHz, 35.5 +/- 100 MHz

Ka Narrow is generally recommended for both ease of use and maximum performance (test here). Originally we were told that the detector is always scanning in Ka Wide and Ka Narrow adjusts only what frequencies the detector alerts to, not what it actually scans for. It turns out it does scan for a narrower range of frequencies which is why we see improved performance.

In general, Ka Narrow is fine for most of the US and Ka Wide is recommended if you encounter out of tune guns such as if you drive in New York.

Note: We’ve found that the 34.7 sweep actually scans up to 34.850 in Ka Narrow, possibly even higher.

Now if you want complete control over the Ka Segments, as of firmware 1.31, we now have 10 individual segments to choose from, just like other manufacturers offer. Here’s what each segment scans for:

  • Ka 1: 33.399 – 33.705
  • Ka 2: 33.705 – 33.903 (MPH radar guns at 33.8)
  • Ka 3: 33.903 – 34.191
  • Ka 4: 34.191 – 34.587 (Stalkers that drift low)
  • Ka 5: 34.587 – 34.803 (Stalker radar guns at 34.7)
  • Ka 6: 34.803 – 35.163 (Stalkers that drift high)
  • Ka 7: 35.163 – 35.379
  • Ka 8: 35.379 35.613 (Kustom and Decatur radar guns at 35.5)
  • Ka 9: 35.613 – 35.829
  • Ka 10: 35.829 – 36.001

Finally, if you’re wondering specifically which additional segments are recommended for different States, beyond the standard 2/5/8, please see this post.

Signal Priority / KA Priority

Signal Priority gives alert priority to the strongest (usually closest) signal.

Ka Priority gives you band priority alerts where if you’re seeing multiple signals, alert priority will be given to Laser, Ka, K, & X in that order.

So for example if you’re getting a strong K band signal and a weak Ka band signal, Signal Priority will alert you to the K band signal while Ka Priority will focus on the Ka band signal. If you have the all threat display option enabled (discussed next), the secondary signal will show up on screen next to the primary signal, but the audio will always be focused on the primary signal.

Mute Mem

By default the detector will only allow you to lock out X and K band sources. This makes sense since there is generally where you’ll find your stationary false alerts. However, some people have speed signs in their area that transmit on Ka band so if you’d to be able to lock out Ka band sources too, you can tell the detector to let you lock out X, K, and Ka alerts.

Be careful when using Ka lockouts. It can be pretty risky and most manufacturers don’t even allow this option at all because of the fact that Ka alerts are almost always real. If you want to use Ka lockouts, make sure you’re 100% confident the Ka band alert is being triggered by a stationary false source that you see every time you pass by before you lock the signal out.

All Threat Display

When the detector is picking up more than one signal, it can show the band and signal strength of any additional signals (up to 3 more) on the left side of the screen where the speedometer/voltmeter would normally go. When only one signal is present, that left side of the screen stays as a speedometer/voltmeter.

Uniden R3 display

Color

Choose what color display you’d like. The options include: blue, amber, green, pink, gray, red, white, and purple.

Mode / Time (R3 only) / Scan

Change what is showing up on screen when you’re not getting an alert.

Mode (R1 & R3) will display the words Highway, City, or Advanced on screen.

Time (R3 only) will display the current time, determined by GPS.

Scan (R1 & R3) will display an animated heartbeat scanner on screen.

Display (R3 Only)

Choose what you want to be displayed on the left side of the screen including your speed, speed and compass, compass, voltage, and altitude.

My preference is for speed. I like speed and compass too, but sometimes when you’re stationary, especially before you start moving when you’re stationary, the compass just spins around and I find this annoying, but the compass can be helpful when driving.

Speed Unit (R3 Only)

Display your speed in MPH or KPH.

Tones for X / K / MRCD / Ka / Bogey / Laser

Choose between 12 different alert tones for any of the radar bands or for laser. Scroll through the different options to listen to what the alert tones sound like.

The new bogey alert option has 5 different alert tones that you can choose between that will alert you to the presence of an additional Ka signal (bogey) detected when the detector was already alerting to a previously detected signal.

Auto Mute

After 3 seconds, the detector will drop the volume to level 1. Helpful for quieting the detector down after it gets your attention initially, but it may be too quiet for some. Some people also leave this disabled to make it easier to record the rampup and beeps on their dashcam for sharing later.

Auto Mute Volume

Adjust how loud or quiet the auto mute option reduces the volume level to. Very handy if the quietest option is too quiet, for example.

Dark Mode

You have the ability to adjust how bright the display is if you set it into dark mode. The display will be off in dark mode (with a blinking dot moving at the bottom of the screen) until you get an alert. When an alert pops up, do you want the display to be bright, dim, or dimmer?

Auto Dim Setting (R3 Only)

Adjust the settings for the auto dim brightness level.

Note: You must first select “Auto” as the display brightness in order to have this option show up in the menu.

Bright time: Adjust what time the detector switches to the bright display in the morning. Select between 5:30am – 7:30am in 15 min increments.

Bright level: Bright, Dim, Dimmer

Dim time: Adjust what time the detector switches to the dim display in the evening. Select between 5pm – 8pm in 15 min increments.

Dim level: Bright, Dim, Dimmer, Dark, Off

Backlight

Makes the front two buttons underneath the display glow from behind so you can find them more easily at night. You can turn it off if you want a stealthier look.

Quiet Ride (R3 Only)

Low speed muting. This automatically mutes any and all X band and K band alerts, whether they’re real alerts or false alerts, when traveling below the speed you select. This feature is incredibly valuable around town to help deal with false alerts.

LimitSpeed (R3 Only)

Audibly warn you when you travel over a preset speed.

GMT (R3 Only)

Choose your time zone and the time will automatically be set via GPS.

  • GMT-05:00 – Eastern
  • GMT-06:00 – Central
  • GMT-07:00 – Mountain
  • GMT-08:00 – Pacific

DST (R3 Only)

Daylight savings time adjustment. If you’ve set your time zone but the clock is off by 1 hour, change this setting.

BAT Warning

Audible warning when your battery drops too low (below 11v).

BAT Saver (R3 Only)

If your detector is plugged into a power source that doesn’t turn off when you turn off your car, turn this on so your detector doesn’t drain your car battery.

It turns the detector off when you’ve been stationary (parked) for 1 hour.

It also turns the detector off if the GPS hasn’t connected for an hour (like when you’re in a parking deck or garage).

Self Test

Run a self-diagnostic test every time you start your detector. You can turn this off for a faster and quieter bootup process.

Factory Reset?

Reset your detector’s settings to factory defaults.

If you’re running the R3, this does not delete your GPS lockouts or manually marked locations.

Delete All Mute? (R3 Only)

Delete all of your GPS lockouts.

Delete All User? (R3 Only)

Delete all of your manually marked locations that you created by pressing the Mark button.

Ver.

Tells you the firmware and DSP firmware version of the detector.

You can check for the current firmware version here.

DB Ver (R3 Only)

Date (version) of the current redlight camera database.

Uniden R3

General Recommended Settings

If you’re wondering what settings you should run, I’d recommend that you read over this guide and take the time to understand what each option does so you can make an informed decision. If you’d like a quick general recommendation that would work for most everyone nationwide, here’s a list of generic recommended settings. These are designed to be safe, give you good performance and filtering, and be applicable all across the country.

  • Advanced: X Band 100%, K Band 70%, Ka Band 100%
  • GPS: On
  • Speed Camera: On
  • Redlight Camera: On
  • RLC Q-Ride: 60mph
  • Voice: On
  • Ka Freq Voice: Off
  • X Band: Off (If you drive in OH or NJ, turn this on.)
  • K Band: On (If you drive in CA, you can typically turn this off.)
  • Ka Band: On
  • Laser: On
  • K POP: Off
  • MRCD: Off (unless you drive in Alberta, Quebec, Chicago, NYC, or MD)
  • Ka POP: Off
  • K Filter: On
  • Ka Filter: Off
  • TSF: Off (If you get regular and constant false K band alerts on the highway, you may have traffic sensors in your area and should turn this on.)
  • K Wide
  • Ka Wide
  • Ka Priority
  • Mute Mem: X & K
  • All Threat: On
  • Color: Red
  • Scan: Time Display
  • Display: Speed
  • Speed Unit: mph
  • Tones: default
  • Auto Mute: On
  • Auto Mute Vol: 2
  • Dark Mode: Bright
  • Auto Dim Settings: 7am, Bright, 6pm, Dimmer (adjust to what’s appropriate for your area)
  • Backlight: On
  • Quiet Ride: 25mph
  • Limit Speed: Off
  • GMT – (Choose your specific time zone)
  • DST: On
  • BAT Warning: On
  • BAT Saver: On
  • Self Test: Off

My Personal Settings

Here’s the settings that I run myself. This is not necessarily what’s best for you, but it’s what I typically use nowadays around here where it’s almost exclusively Ka and Laser. K band is very rare around here and so unless I’m out on a road trip to somewhere new, I really like the detector extra quiet on K band, especially when someone else is in the car with me, so I filter K band pretty aggressively.

  • City or Advanced Mode with K Band at 70% if I want better K band performance
  • GPS: On
  • Speed Camera: On
  • Redlight Camera: On
  • RLC Q-Ride: 50mph
  • Voice: Off
  • Ka Freq Voice: On
  • X Band: Off
  • K Band: On
  • Ka Band: On
  • Laser: On
  • K POP: Off
  • MRCD: Off
  • Ka POP: Off
  • K Filter: On
  • Ka Filter: Off
  • TSF: Off
  • K Narrow
  • Ka Segmentation: Segments 2/5/8
  • Ka Priority
  • Mute Mem: X & K
  • All Threat: On
  • Color: Blue
  • Scan: Time Display
  • Display: Speed + Compass
  • Speed Unit: mph
  • Tones: most default, MRCD 7, Bogey 5
  • Auto Mute: On
  • Auto Mute Vol: 2
  • Dark Mode: Bright
  • Auto Dim Settings: 7:15am, Bright, 6:30pm, Dimmer (This varies throughout the year)
  • Backlight: On
  • Quiet Ride: 35mph
  • Limit Speed: Off
  • GMT – 8 Hour
  • DST: On
  • BAT Warning: On
  • BAT Saver: Off
  • Self Test: Off

Note: This guide is current as of firmware 1.46. As new firmware updates are released, settings may be added or removed and performance may be impacted as well. I’ll update this as things change.

If you need to purchase either detector, you can purchase the R1 here and you can purchase the R3 here.

109 comments

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    • Ftlaud911 on June 16, 2017 at 9:11 pm
    • Reply

    Thank you!! Exactly what I was looking for. I love the R3, but honestly feel semi guilty now when I look at my V1 on my desk. I know I have a more sensitive detector, but it has served me very well for like a decade. Since your in touch with Uniden I have some recommendations at this time.

    1. They need to get better suction cups – mine was constantly falling or hanging by one. The big suction mount is very nice but huge
    2. They need to see why the R3 gets so hot which will shorten the life of the detector – someone on you tube did a test and mine is very warm to the touch
    3. Keep the firmware coming – says a ton about their commitment to the product
    4. Include a permanent mount
    5. Sounds seem odd – sent links to two of my friends about getting one and both commented they hated the sound
    6. Most important – add arrows (I would pay more to have them)
    7. Offer an upgrade program if they do come up with arrows, (one can hope)

    Overall I am very happy with my unit. Need to test my sunglasses so that might make me slightly annoyed.

    • "astaire" -(rdformum name) on June 17, 2017 at 12:29 pm
    • Reply

    Great post and very informative. Have decided to buy an R3 once the availability improves.

    Noted once error — the Ka band frequency range:

    “Ka Wide: 33.4 GHz – 33.6 GHz”

    1. oops lol, thanks for the heads up!

    • David Sammartino on June 17, 2017 at 5:32 pm
    • Reply

    Can I please ask you if the k band filter will slow r3 down alot? I have k band in my area.

    1. Virtually none. Leave the filter on so that you pay attention when it goes off. You’ve got LOTS of performance with the R3. What you need is to trust it when it goes off. 😉

    • Bill Wilson on June 18, 2017 at 4:01 pm
    • Reply

    Mrcd Detection R-3 or future model coming?

    1. I haven’t heard anything. Check out the upcoming Radenso Pro SE M-edition for MRCD detection: https://www.rdforum.org/showthread.php?t=60845

    • Mara on June 21, 2017 at 10:25 am
    • Reply

    I would like to speak to an expert regarding radar and laser on human bodies. Can you email a telephone number.

    1. I’m not the person to talk to on the subject. I’m not sure who to point you towards either. Perhaps a scientist or university where this is studied specifically?

    • Anthony on June 21, 2017 at 3:16 pm
    • Reply

    I just picked up a MAX 360, does it pay to return it for the R3. Most of my driving is in the NY city area.

    1. That’s a really common question and it’s one I find tough to answer. Do you want the arrows? Do you want the autolockouts? Do you want the Bluetooth and app features? Have you found those features helpful so far?

      The Uniden has better long range performance. Have you been lacking range with your 360?

      The Uniden is still new and there’s some bug fixes and firmware updates that are coming out.

      The Max360 has a firmware update promised to help address some issues too, but we’re been waiting a while for that.

        • Anthony on June 21, 2017 at 4:09 pm
        • Reply

        I love all the features of the MAX360, that the main reason why i purchased it. I just which it had a bit more range.

        1. Welcome to the unending search for the ultimate radar detector. ?

    • Dennis on June 22, 2017 at 5:54 pm
    • Reply

    First time on this site
    Very lnformitive!!
    Just got the R3 ! It’s awesome
    Put my redline in the drawer
    Find it hard to read the manual
    Expected a comprehensive book like !

    1. Congrats on your new R3! 😀

    • Dennis on June 25, 2017 at 11:12 am
    • Reply

    Hi, my uniden r3 won’t display correct time
    -5 should be the correct selection for eastern time wit DST SET TO ON ????

    • Dennis on June 28, 2017 at 11:19 am
    • Reply

    Hi, my uniden r3 won’t display correct time
    -5 should be the correct selection for eastern time wit DST SET TO ON ????

    Leave a Reply

    1. If you have a GPS lock and thus the time is being displayed, but you’ve selected your time zone and it’s off by an hour, change the DST option.

    • David on July 28, 2017 at 6:04 pm
    • Reply

    Hey Vortex,thanks for all your time and effort for us out here.Quick question sir,is the audio jack for the R1 and R3 considered a mono or stereo jack?I just tried hookong up my external escort speaker i had running on my redline but i got no sound at all.Thanks for your time.

      • Patacogs on August 18, 2017 at 7:29 pm
      • Reply

      Have you solved this problem – I just did the entire install and am getting no sound – pretty frustrating … hope its an easy fix

        • LLP2112 on November 8, 2017 at 2:32 pm
        • Reply

        Has anyone figured this out? My R3 just arrived today and I plan to hardwire install this weekend with the powered Escort speaker so I’ll report back. Between my ham radio gear and my podcast rig, I have about a thousand and one audio jack adapters laying around, so I’m sure I’ll find one that works. Will report back! I like my music LOUD and have been spoiled with the Redline and Escort Live over Bluetooth so this will be an adjustment.

    • Howie on July 30, 2017 at 12:31 am
    • Reply

    Howdy,

    I saw your review of the Uniden R3 and after doing some additional research went ahead and ordered it a couple of days ago and received it today. I only found out today after recently relocating to California for work and driving around with an Escort 9500ix on my windshield for the past three months that it is illegal.

    Blendmount seem to be pretty overpriced for their RVM mounts, so wondered what the options are. I ordered a RVM mount for a vehicle a few years ago but cannot find them for anything. They’re mount was very similar to the Blendmount but a whole lot less expensive. Are there any alternatives to the Blendmount that isn’t a windshield mount?

    I also wanted to say thanks for all of your hard work. I will donate as I am able. Thanks again.

    • Mike on August 9, 2017 at 6:05 pm
    • Reply

    Great post. I would really like to run Ka narrow but I live in NY. Where in NY are people seeing out of tune radar? I know most of the areas I travel they use 34.7 and the NYSP in particular seem to run very low power because they are much harder to detect then other agencies. So if there out of tune I would see readings greater then 34.82 GHz and less then 34.58 GHz?

      • Mike S on August 25, 2017 at 7:26 pm
      • Reply

      Live near Albany, NY. Primary threats here are 34.7 and some 35.5. No K band. Haven’t run into out of tune guns, in fact, most have been pretty well centered on 34.7 and 35.5. Ran my Redline 2/5/8 without issue for a long time after running non-segmented for a few months first. Since the R3’s 34.7 scanning width in Ka narrow mode is wider then the Red line’s seg 5, I will likely run Ka narrow when my R3 arrives next week. In the end, it’s whatever you feel comfortable width. Perhaps you put it on wide for a few months and take note of how well the radar units are tuned in your area like I did first.

    • Kenny Gall on August 12, 2017 at 2:50 pm
    • Reply

    Thank you for all you do… For input to Uniden, I find their update procedure a little challenging.. I’m not a real computer guy. I use one everyday at work but unzipping and Bat files are a little much.. If they could streamline the update procedure that would be awesome.. With that said, as a long time Escort user, I can’t put into words how happy i am that they even do updates to support their products, but if I can gripe just a little, the streamlining of the process would be great..

    1. Agreed. That’s something people are bringing up a lot and would be a good next step for them to address.

    • 13hangfire on August 23, 2017 at 4:44 pm
    • Reply

    Thanks for all of the updates and great info! I just purchased my R3 after owning an escort for decades! It was worth it’s weight in gold but woefully outdated. Your youtube vids convinced me it was time to come into the 21st century! haha Thanks again:)

    • Dickson Kidd on September 18, 2017 at 10:38 am
    • Reply

    I just wanted to let you know that you are the best & most helpful person that explains everything with so much clarity and speed. You get to the meat of the coconut without going around the world telling folks about things that are not prevalent. I think if not companies are not paying you they should big time as you best I have ever heard as a speaker and products you talk about. Great future Dickson Kidd Harpersville, Alabama 35078

    1. Thank you very much! I really enjoy it and am grateful that me doing what I love is also so helpful to others. 🙂

      As for companies paying me, while I could go that route, I’d prefer not being sponsored or financially tied to any particular manufacturer. Being unbiased is really important to me so it’s something I choose to avoid. Instead I’ve set things up where I can be financially supported, but it really doesn’t matter which brand or product I recommend. When people buy a product using my affiliate links, watch my YouTube videos with ads, or support me on Patreon, this helps me to do what I do while still remaining objectively neutral towards different brands and manufacturers. 🙂

    • Clinton on September 19, 2017 at 8:25 am
    • Reply

    Can you tell me what is a good setup for the NC area using the R3…

    1. If you’d like personalized one-on-one support, you can book a private session with me here: https://www.vortexradar.com/private-sessions/

    • David Dufresne on October 6, 2017 at 10:58 am
    • Reply

    Vortex, you are the best! I have watched a ton of your youtube videos, read your reviews and instructions and learned so much. I just ordered my R3 from your site, I chatted with a guy who was really nice and helpful. Other buyers need to beware some of these sites are saying they have stock on the R3 but they don’t (radar roy site for sure is doing this). You’ll spend weeks waiting if your not careful. Mine is already in transit, can’t wait. Already have a buyer for my V1. 🙂

    • George W Lewis on October 15, 2017 at 10:23 am
    • Reply

    Can’t change my time zone. I live in IL, Central Time Zone

    • DaveFromRI on October 16, 2017 at 5:48 am
    • Reply

    I’d like to suggest another option in addition to “General Recommended Settings” and “My Personal Settings”, and maybe it would be called something like “New Field Test Settings”, meaning that you would use these settings after a new purchase for an extended period of time, to understand your local situations and radar utilization, and then on an as-demonstrated basis, start implementing filters.

    The thought being is that despite what is logged by users in the state, one might hit an off-tune gun (or such) that is very localized, and not published in any state database.

    Another name one could call it (not seriously) is: “Cover my a$$ for everything, and then let me turn off what I learn over time I don’t need.”

    • Michael Daugherty on October 25, 2017 at 2:48 pm
    • Reply

    Just bought a Uniden R3 and so far I think its a great detector. I also have a Escort Max 360 and Beltronics Magnum. I really like the Escort Max 360 because of the arrows and autolockouts. The Beltronics has really good range but is just too noisy for me, so i am selling it on Ebay. The Uniden saved my butt this morning on the way to work. It signaled like an IO shot and then went to constant on. I wasn’t sure where the signal was coming from, so I slowed and then turned off. The signal disappeared but a few moments later blasted me again. Then a few seconds later a Sheriff cruiser passed me by. I was pretty pleased that my R3 was working well. The only thing I did miss was the arrows on my 360, as it would have shown me that the threat was behind me. Anyways, I love it. I also wanted to say that I have been watching your videos for some time. They videos and your website have been instrumental in peaking my interest in radar detectors. Your videos have been a tremendous help. They are the best videos out there when it comes to radar detectors. I also loved watching Radar Roy. Thank you

    • Ben on November 9, 2017 at 2:42 pm
    • Reply

    Hi there Vortex,

    I really appreciate your YouTube channel for schooling me on radar in such a short period of time… Your videos are always well produced and easy to understand. Many thanks!!

    I live in Northern California (Bay Area) and recently picked up an R1 which I’m loving so far. Have it mounted on a Scoshe magnetic mount just to the left of center on my 18′ Subaru WRX’s dash. It clears the wipers and hood scoop and the rear-eye is unobstructed towards the rear. My car has BSD and Rear-Cross-Traffic Alert.

    I have had more Laser hits than Ka-band hits and wanted to get your opinion about what is happening in the following situations:

    R1 alerts to Laser in dense, nighttime rush-hour traffic while merging onto the freeway. No LEO spotted and no place for them to sit and point. Was behind a mid-2000s Lexus and may have had a big-rig behind me but can’t recall. This was five lanes of wall to wall traffic moving less than 15 mph.

    A few hours later…

    R1 alerts to Laser in nighttime freeway driving. there is congestion in all lanes, but everyone is moving right around the speed limit in the leftmost lanes. It was raining and I didn’t see any LEO, although I may have had one behind me as the headlights looked like a new-model Ford SUV. No radar hits at all, just laser…

    May this have anything to do with those systems that auto-track license plates for out-of-date registrations, warrants, and the like…? Trying to understand if this is even LE or maybe some other technology out there…

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    btw, for anyone curious this was Hwy 880 through Oakland just north of Oracle Arena.

    1. Maybe a vehicle up ahead with laser-based collision avoidance systems? I’ve noticed Mazda SUV’s, Infinitis, and Volvos are the biggest culprits. Cell phones can sometimes also trigger laser alerts if the detector can see the screen.

        • Ben on November 10, 2017 at 2:28 pm
        • Reply

        Sounds good! Thanks so much for your reply and quick shipping of the R1!

    • David on November 10, 2017 at 3:07 pm
    • Reply

    Hi,
    Just picked up an R3 but not sure it is working correctly. I am in Northern California and only had KA Segment on for bands 5, 8. Came up behind a CHP SUV and got a few chirps on the KA Band. Then nothing. Even as I got even with him and then in front of him as he exited the freeway, nothing.

    This morning got a KA hit and CHP was parked on opposite side of freeway with car pulled over. Got a couple of chirps when I could almost make out where he was pulled over and then nothing as I passed.

    I have a 2014 Mercedes E350 and wonder if the front windshield has factory installed tinting or the solar deflection that could be effecting the Uniden R3 severely? Not sure how to tell if windshield has the solar deflection.

    Appreciate any insights you can offer.

    1. Hey David, yeah it is very possible that your windshield could be impacting your radar detector’s ability to work properly. See this video for more info: https://youtu.be/Dd5YyLgyw5E

      If you test and find that your windshield is at fault and you don’t have an opening in your windshield where radar can pass through, you’ll need to get a remote mount radar detector installed in your grill area instead.

        • David Broderick on November 11, 2017 at 1:41 pm
        • Reply

        A street by my house has a K Band Speed Sign. I turned on K Band and tested the R3 while parked 1/2 mile away and the signal is passing through the windshield no problem.

        If the windshield were the issue would it effect K band differently than KA band?

        Also, my 2014 E350 also has Radar Cruise Control and I am thinking this could be the issue. Do you have any experience or know any one with Radar Cruise Control having similar issues?

        Going to test the same sign while driving.

        1. Ah nice. If it’s detecting K band just fine, Ka band would be the same. It shouldn’t be different per band like that. If you’re seeing the detector sometimes not alert the way you think it should, it’s likely instant on or something along those lines.

          As for radar cruise control, that’s a really mixed bag. There’s lots of combinations of detectors, vehicles, and so on. Sometimes it does cause issues, yeah, and sometimes it doesn’t.

            • David Broderick on November 12, 2017 at 3:27 pm

            Did another test today with the K Band running the Dynamic Cruise Control and it worked just fine.

            CHP cruisers normally runs with the KA Band Radar on all the time and no Instant ON as far as I know. Guessing my detector is defective. Will test this week with everything enabled to see if KA band works at all this week.

    • Eloi on February 23, 2018 at 8:45 pm
    • Reply

    I use the R1 for 6 months and i still learn new tricks by reading your detailed and excellent review. Now that firmware version is now 1.36 , february 22 2018 , would you refresh this article , based on many new features , it would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks a lot.

    • Jimi J on March 1, 2018 at 7:52 am
    • Reply

    The latest Firmware Version that is posted on unidensupport is V 1.31. Where is 1.36? I just received mine 3/1/18 and it is loaded with 1.31 still.

    • Robert Goodin on April 7, 2018 at 4:47 pm
    • Reply

    just got my R3 and updated…. plan on using it on my bike. I want to run and external audio. Does the the R3 audio output a mono or stereo jack?

    • Jeff Cummings on April 8, 2018 at 11:06 am
    • Reply

    Hello, I enjoy your website and have learned a lot of useful info. here. I own an r3 as of yesterday and have an idea that I think would be useful if you could pass it on to uniden for me. I know GPS has the ability to know the speed limits of the road you are travelling on. I know sometimes with construction and such is not accurate but none the less I think it would be awesome if they updated the firmware with the ability to automatically set “quiet ride” to the speed limit of the road that you are currently travelling on. This would be a great feature, you could set it to keep the detector quiet unless you are going over the speed limit. Do you think this could be achieved with just a firmware update, or would it not be possible? Thanks.

    1. It’s not a simple thing to do via a firmware update. You need a full map of the US with all the roads, not just a list of points of where the speed limits are. Escort Live does it because it has access to maps when running online and can pull the data that way without having to fill the detector with tons and tons and tons of mapping information. If Uniden adds Bluetooth one day and a cell phone app, they could do the same sort of thing, but it’d otherwise be a massive amount of information to add into the detector and I doubt it even has the memory to support that much information.

    • John on May 16, 2018 at 4:12 pm
    • Reply

    I am running a brand new R3 which i upgraded with 137 firmware. The BAT Saver is turned ON, yet the detector does not turn off in a powered outlet. I’ve checked it at 30, 60 and 90 minute intervals and it remains powered on. Any thoughts or suggestions?

    • Mike Kantor on June 21, 2018 at 12:05 pm
    • Reply

    Hi,
    I just got my new R3 from Best Buy. I have 3 questions.
    1. All of the videos i have seen show the name badge on top of the unit n chrome. Mine is matte black
    2. Everything I’ve seen online including the manual that came with the unit shows 2 different windshield mounts.
    Mine only has the single suction mount with the adjustable base.
    3. What time frame does Uniden allow you to update the database for free? The manual does not say.
    Just curious. Thank you.
    Mike

    1. Best Buy has an exclusive matte black version of the R3. Same thing, just a different piece of plastic on top.

      It should come with two mounts including the normal one which is a small piece of metal with two suction cups. Take a look back through your included accessories and doublecheck.

      The updates are good for life. There is no subscription for them. Just download and update.

    • Mugen on June 29, 2018 at 11:16 am
    • Reply

    Hi Vortex,

    I have been doing a lot… A LOT of researching on which radar to go with next. We both currently have Redline but I decided to buy the R3 and my brother did the same. We’ve had it for almost a week now and he’s told me that it’s been quiet for him.. Too quiet. We are here in Texas and I’m using the same settings listed above in advanced mode and we were traveling together in 2 separate cars this morning and a LEO was pointing a radar at me while I was going above speed limit. Both of our radars DID NOT go off (no laser, no KA) I was so lucky that I saw him and slowed down in time. He ended up pulling another car behind my brother over. My brother immediately returned his R3 but I’m still wanting to test it out but I am very disappointed.. Is it possible that police are using different radar systems that no one knows about? I’m going to change the segmentation to see if that helps. Thank you!

    1. They use normal Stalker radar guns in TX, K and Ka band. Nothing that fancy. It is very common for police to not be always transmitting radar while driving. This video explains things in more detail: https://youtu.be/Siv–_3eTxs They can also pull over vehicles based on visual estimation alone without having to use radar, they can follow a vehicle and match their speed and pull them over based on what their own speedometers is saying, and so on. If both of your radar detectors didn’t go off, he wasn’t transmitting radar.

    • Mugen on June 29, 2018 at 12:04 pm
    • Reply

    I completely understand that but the disappointing fact is that he was obviously pointing a radar/ laser gun at us and nothing went off. I have a dash cam recording too and was wondering if it was a different system the officer was using or if it’s the settings….

    1. Did he have a handheld gun up to his eye? If so, he was using laser and it makes total sense that your radar detector didn’t alert. https://youtu.be/75fsXgZDdK0

    • Mugen on June 29, 2018 at 12:33 pm
    • Reply

    Yes he did… And unfortunately nothing went off on both of our radars.. I immediately called my brother after and he confirmed.

    1. You got shot with laser. Watch the video I just linked you to so you can understand why your detector didn’t alert. After that, look into pairing a set of laser jammers to run alongside your radar detector.

        • Highly Cool on July 11, 2018 at 5:57 pm
        • Reply

        I lived in the Dallas/Fort Worth area for 17 years. I saw way more LiDAR used there than radar. I would say LiDAR to radar use was 5 or 6 to 1 in the cities across Texas. As you stated, it’s very common for a detector to not alert if they hit you low on the vehicle with the beam.

        The only ticket I ever got in Texas was from a local motorcycle officer running laser. All my detector did was tell me it was time to pull over and get out the wallet.

        Thanks for your great site and videos. My 10 year old rock solid Bel V995 just gave up the ghost, so time to upgrade. Doing my research now to narrow my choice down and your info is invaluable!!

        Keep it coming!!!!

    • Fred on June 30, 2018 at 10:25 am
    • Reply

    Hi

    I live in SF Ca and a lidar gun did not pick it up, so we went and talked to the cop and that’s how we found out he had lidar

    Is there a setting I should be using

    Thanks

    1. Radar detectors are not the right tool for lidar as you found. https://youtu.be/75fsXgZDdK0

    • nicholas on July 8, 2018 at 8:47 am
    • Reply

    hi ive purchased the uniden R3 great bit of kit

    My question is ive updated the firmware and database is the DB worldwide or just the US

    Many thanks

    1. Congrats! To my knowledge it’s only for the US and Canada. There is an Aus/NZ version database too, but you have to buy the NZ version specifically.

    • Kirby Drysen on July 10, 2018 at 12:49 pm
    • Reply

    Love your articles and youtube videos. Keep up all the good work

    Purchased a Uniden R3 – based on your videos. Coming from a V1 – so many features that I love with the R3, especially the GPS based features.

    Question: I live in Washington State. In general, the settings you recommend work perfect for my area. I was traveling from Bellevue to Tacoma (I-5) and was getting a lot of hits on K-band. Are these Traffic Flow monitors ? If I turn on TFS – will that impact the performance of the unit.

    Appreciate the feedback.

    1. We don’t have any traffic sensors up here so you won’t need to enable to TSF. Generally the falses you’ll see are going to be BSM falses caused by other nearby vehicles with radar-based collision avoidance systems and blind spot monitoring systems. Unfortunately every radar detector has to deal with those and there’s no detector that’s immune to them. If you get the same false alert in the same area every time you drive by, however, those are typically from automatic door openers in shopping centers along the highway and those you can lock out (hit the mute button twice) and the detector will remember those alerts and filter them out next time you come by. That works great for stationary falses, but against moving falses it’s tough.

    • Don on July 24, 2018 at 4:15 pm
    • Reply

    Just got it today, made the settings and a long test ride while keeping my trusty Belltronics STi Magnum hooked up.

    The R3 has some nice toy like features and it warned me from a red light camera, but the STi picked up signals not only earlier, it also stayed with them and didn’t fade in and out on the same source.

    Also, with my STi I can tell quickly if its a cop or some false alarm. I have learned it well in the past 8 year (was updated once a couple years ago).

    So far I don’t trust the R3. I can’t tell if its onto something or not. It goes off on a source, lets go again, comes back on. Its almost like it mutes itself all the time.

    Not impressed so far. I will keep testing it for up to 30 days. If it keeps being wacko even with different settings I’ll return it. Not going to waste $400 on something that isn’t better in its core function over an almost 10 year old STi.

    1. Do not run two radar detectors at the same time because that will mess up your results. https://youtu.be/nxtBGUhwpBE

      Also keep in mind that every radar detectors has its own sort of personality or language you need to get used to. If you’ve run one detector for a while, you’re going to get comfortable with the way it works. Switching to another radar detector may take a little getting used to so give it a little time like when you buy a new pair of shoes. 🙂

    • alan on July 28, 2018 at 8:54 pm
    • Reply

    if I want to use it in Australia, but I bought mine in Asia(China) is there any update I need to do? or is the unit updateable to a different country? (do they sell the unit that has different spec adapted to a different country?)

    1. There is an Aus/NZ version, yes, with a database specifically for your area. I don’t know anything about purchasing it from China or how that works.

    • Daniel McGuire on July 29, 2018 at 1:20 pm
    • Reply

    I’m confused by the segmentation feature of the R3 for the Ka band. I set the setting according to your recommendations, 2/5/8 (assuming they should be “on.” Is this to replace the Ka narrow setting?

    1. When you enable the Ka Segmentation feature, you then have the options for adjusting individual Ka segments. If you enable Ka Narrow instead of Ka Segmentation, it automatically sets up a 2/5/8-like setup for you.

    • Daniel McGuire on July 30, 2018 at 9:03 am
    • Reply

    Thanks so much. So the above being clarified, I can just set to Ka Narrow and I should be good? Based on your recommendation (R3 for you, Escort 360 for parents and siblings) I purchased the R3. I like it, but like many comments, it would be nice if the R3 had features like the 360 Max, i.e., arrows, GPS current speed limit displayed and so on.

    1. Yeah you should be fine with Ka Narrow. 🙂 I agree with you that it’d be great if the R3 had more bells and whistles. All the neverending search for the ultimate no-compromise detector. 😀

    • Shawn on August 1, 2018 at 8:46 pm
    • Reply

    Do you know what would cause false laser alerts on the Uniden R3?

    I am getting a LOT of laser alerts on I-5N in Shoreline area.
    Every time it happens, there is no visible state patrol and nowhere for them to be hiding.
    I just upgraded firmware, we’ll see if it keeps happening.

    1. Often times it’s your phone. Can your detector see it by chance? It does happen for some people and I’m not sure why. If you can’t figure it out, you can always disable laser detection on the R3 (not ideal, I know) and let your jammers handle everything since your R3 won’t help you avoid a ticket in the first place (its laser sensitivity is pretty poor and it can false quite a bit) while your jammers will actually help protect you from the ticket.

    • Keith Berry on August 2, 2018 at 12:59 pm
    • Reply

    Also, aviation navigation aids around airports will sometimes set the laser alerts off. Is there a major airport close to the area where you get these alerts? If so, it may be their navigation equipment.

    • Nima on August 10, 2018 at 7:25 am
    • Reply

    Just bought my Uniden R3. Thank you for taking the time to explain the programming steps.

    Had a quick question!

    I live in Oregon and frequent Washington. Will your personal settings be optimal for Oregon/Washington?

    1. Well I live in WA and drive down to Oregon periodically so… 😉

      The only differences I guess will be things like how K band photo radar vans are used in Portland so if you’re there, you may want to be less aggressive on the K band settings. Maybe K band at 70% sensitivity in Advanced mode instead of running in City mode. Otherwise things should be very similar.

    • Daniel McGuire on August 11, 2018 at 11:05 am
    • Reply

    I purchased a rearview mirror mounting bracket from Amazon and had it installed for $95. The R3 really looks nice mounted just under the mirror. No wires hanging down in the interior cabin which is really nice.

    • Eric on August 13, 2018 at 5:47 pm
    • Reply

    Recently purchased an R1- love it and am already amazed at the range – snagged a Florida State Trooper running constant on KA at over 2 miles 🙂 That’ll work!

    My question is about fancy settings- for example, if I disable K band, or enable segmented KA (2, 5,6 & 8), do these changes take effect only when set on Advanced mode, or Highway and City also?

    1. Those modes simply adjust K band sensitivity. Turning K band on or off or choosing how Ka segmentation works is independent of your K band sensitivity adjustments. 🙂

    • Steven Schneider on August 28, 2018 at 12:59 pm
    • Reply

    I love my new R3. I inadvertently created a Mark and cannot find how to delete it. Each time I drive to that marked spot, it makes an announcement. How do I delete it?

    • Highly Cool on August 28, 2018 at 1:02 pm
    • Reply

    Just press MARK again when you are at the location and it should delete the user mark.

    • Dan Ribar on September 5, 2018 at 3:52 am
    • Reply

    I had something strange happen this morning. Running the R3 on default settings, set on City cruising south of Sarasota on US41. A newer Suburban got close up behind me and my KA went crazy. All I could think of was that it was some of their tech. 20 seconds later it was off again. Not a fade-in and fade-out… but instant on then instant off. It’s quite possible there was some trooper somewhere that I didn’t see but…. any thoughts?

    1. Possibly a leaky radar detector inside that vehicle. Try enabling the Ka Filter if you haven’t already.

        • Dan Ribar on September 5, 2018 at 4:11 am
        • Reply

        Thank you for your amazingly-fast response. I’ll try that.

    • Bryan on September 5, 2018 at 12:26 pm
    • Reply

    Love you site. As a fellow Puget Sounder, I largely followed your settings on my R1. Today I noticed the detector has an error that displays “DSP Error: Host”. I’ll check for firmware updates after work but do you have any idea what a possible root cause of this error would be?

    1. Oh weird, I’ve never seen that error before. Maybe try doing a firmware update and use the Recover feature to fully load in the firmware again so it reloads the DSP software. If you see that error again, you should probably reach out to Uniden.

    • John on September 10, 2018 at 9:50 am
    • Reply

    I’ve ended up choosing the R3 for most driving, with the Pro-M only when entering some of the new photo radar LP cameras.

    In the NE corridor, incl up through Buffalo, Vortex’s setting are what I use with the addition of segment Ka 6 as I’ve seen 2 occasions of upward drift in NY. (I’d expect DOWNdrift–but these were def high)

    Around town, I’ve also set Quiet Ride to 40, as it blocks out a LOT of annoying K falses.

    Thanks!

    • Steven Schneider on September 10, 2018 at 11:07 am
    • Reply

    Quick how to question. I inadvertently created a “user mark” and cannot seem to delete it. I’m using the cigarette lighter that has the mute/button. Every time I pass the “user mark”, it lets me know and it’s driving me nuts. Can you please specifically tell me how to delete it? For instance, as soon as the user mark announces itself, press and hold the cigarette lighter/mute button and hold for “x” seconds, etc. I think I tried everything to delete it with no success. Help…

    1. Reference the manual. I think it’s a double press of the mute button when the alert pops up. I’m not sure. There’s also an option in the menu to delete all user marks if you want as well.

    • Matthew on September 10, 2018 at 5:48 pm
    • Reply

    Great site. Quick question. I was using the original blendmount before the undste on my R3 and now when I wanted to switch back to my uniden mount it won’t lock in. Is there a way to fix this?

    • Ferd on September 11, 2018 at 1:59 pm
    • Reply

    I just bought the R3 based on your recommendation. Thanks. I’m trying to use the Mute Memory feature to mute a Ka band alert in my office building’s parking garage. The process laid out in the manual doesn’t work. Also, your Guide says that it will only mute an X or K band alert. Is that right? Do I have to listen to this alert every day?

    Thanks!

    1. Correct. Lockouts only work for X and K band. However, in the next firmware update, there will be an option for lockouts on Ka band too.

        • Ferd on September 17, 2018 at 9:40 am
        • Reply

        Thanks. I think they should also create a speed sensitive alert threshold. In both places (parking garage and close to home), I’m well under 35 miles per hour.

          • Eric on September 17, 2018 at 9:45 am
          • Reply

          For your R3, does this not fit that desire?

          Quiet Ride (R3 Only)
          Low speed muting. This automatically mutes any and all X band and K band alerts, whether they’re real alerts or false alerts, when traveling below the speed you select. This feature is incredibly valuable around town to help deal with false alerts.

            • Ferd on September 17, 2018 at 9:50 am

            No, not for Ka band alerts. I get them at the same locations all the time.

        • Ferd on October 3, 2018 at 1:24 pm
        • Reply

        Any ETA on a firware update?

        1. Later today! 🙂

    • Steven Schneider on September 14, 2018 at 6:30 am
    • Reply

    This is a follow-up to my recent question that you were good enough to respond to. I had mentioned that I had inadvertently pressed a user Mark in my R3 and was unable to remove it and you told me to (possibly) press the mute button twice or look in the directions. Pressing the mute button twice did nothing and there’s nothing in the instructions regarding removing a Mark and I scrolled through all of the choices on the R3 and none listed anything about a Mark. How can I delete the Mark? Please help. Thx, Steve

    • Highly Cool on September 14, 2018 at 2:17 pm
    • Reply

    Per the manual on Page 8

    User Mark. A User Mark is a manually taggedgeographic location where an alarm is usuallyfound. The R3 alerts when close to these UserMarks.
    • Add – Press MARK when you are at the alarmlocation.
    • Delete – Press MARK when you are at an alarm location that has been marked (Mute Mem displays)
    • Delete All Marks – Press and hold MARK

    Make sure you are at the actual marked location and not past it when you press mark

    • Ferd on September 17, 2018 at 9:52 am
    • Reply

    Bat Saver = On

    I have a Tesla, and had to wire the R3 directly to the battery (with an added fuse). So the detector won’t turn off when I leave the car. I have the above setting set, where it should turn off after 30 minutes, however, this doesn’t work. Is this a bug, or am I doing something wrong?

    1. It should work when it detects you’re doing 0mph (parked) or it loses GPS altogether (you park in a parking garage). According to the manual, it requires you to be parked for an hour, not 30 min. Looks like I need to correct this post. Thanks!

    • Sean on September 19, 2018 at 3:23 am
    • Reply

    Greetings,
    I am disappointed with my R3 purchase.
    It does not detect laser.
    Do you have any suggestions?

    Thanks

    S

    1. Yes it does. It’s just not very sensitive. Even if it was, it doesn’t matter because it doesn’t help you avoid tickets from laser. See here for more info: https://youtu.be/75fsXgZDdK0 If you want protection against laser, you’ll want to invest in a laser jammer to complement your radar detector.

    • John Willey on September 19, 2018 at 6:51 am
    • Reply

    It’s simply a fact of life: as VORTEX and others have noted, when LEOs utilize lidar they typically throw a beam which–at it’s largest–may only be 8″ where it touches your vehicle. To make it more difficult, they often target a front or rear license plate, or head/tail light.

    NO radar detector is likely to pick these up. A RL original VERY occasionally picked one up–but when I say rarely I mean perhaps 2X in 5 years.

    I haven’t invested in dedicated laser protection yet, but unless/until I do—I don’t expect my RD to give any adequate (or any at all) warning for laser!

    • Highly Cool on September 19, 2018 at 11:55 am
    • Reply

    My old Beltronics V995 picked up LIDAR great; it let me know I needed to pull over to receive my ticket. LOL.

    Haven’t encountered LIDAR yet with my R3, but as others have said, the beam is so narrow that you may not even get a notification when you are the target if the detector is mounted much higher than your front bumper and license plate where they usually are aiming.

    • Howard E. on October 13, 2018 at 5:14 am
    • Reply

    THANKS for your excellent Youtube post on Installing the Firmware (R3, MAC), and also the post on setting up all the options & parameters. I am going to print out this, web page version, so I can use it in the car as I set up the R3 for the first time.
    I was also trying to figure out which USB cable I needed to buy to connect to my computer. (Why they don’t provide one with the product, or at least specify in the “user manual”, I don’t know (:-) ) You nicely answered that question.
    The User Manual, Uniden web Support pages provide VERY LITTLR info or Help. Your posts are really a major help!
    Thanks Again!, Howard

    • John Willey on October 13, 2018 at 7:57 am
    • Reply

    Great update. Vortex! Thanks………………..

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