How to Program and Set Up Your Uniden R1 and Uniden R3 Radar Detector

Uniden R3If you have a Uniden R1 or Uniden R3, you can change the settings to give yourself better performance, filter out more false alerts, change the display color to match your vehicle’s interior, and basically tweak it to what you prefer.

Now there’s no universal “best” settings for everyone of course since what’s best depends on where you drive and even your own personal preferences. That’s why they gave us options. 🙂

You can download the R1 manual or the R3 manual and read over the details. Rather than just duplicating the manual here, in this article I want to go into a bit more explanation so you can better understand the benefits of the different settings, their pros and cons, and which one you should choose. At the very end, I’ll share with you the settings that I run. 🙂

Functions of All the Different Buttons:

Uniden R1 and Uniden R3

  • Power: Turn the detector on or off
  • Menu: Enter into the settings menu
    • (R3 only) Long press will change between Highway / City / Advanced modes
  • Vol -: Reduce the volume
    • Go backwards through the menu options
  • Vol +: Increase the volume
    • Go forwards through the menu options
  • Mute / Dim:
    • Mute: Press once during an alert to mute the alert
    • Lock out a false alert: (R3 only) Press twice during a stationary X or K band false alert to teach the detector that this is a false alert. It will remember this signal and automatically mute it for you in the future.
    • Delete a RLC: (R3 only) Press twice during a red light camera or speedcamera alert and it will delete that particular alert from the detector’s database and not alert you to it again.
    • Adjust brightness: Press and hold when no alert is present to change the display brightness
      • Bright
      • Dim
      • Dimmer
      • Dark: Display is disabled and only lights up when an alert is present. When no alert is present, there will be a blinking dot in the lower left hand corner so you can doublecheck that the detector is on.
      • Off: Display and buttons are completely turned off at all times, giving you a fully blacked out detector at all times. Your audio will play normally still, of course.
  • Mark (R3): Manually mark this location so that your detect alerts you every time you come back by it. Useful to mark locations that you know are regularly used as speed traps, for example.
  • City (R1): Change between Highway / City / Advanced modes

Settings & Menu Options:

Highway / City / Advanced

This lets you dial back the sensitivity of K band and X band to reduce false alerts around town. Ka band is always unaffected.

Highway: Full sensitivity on Ka, K, and X band.

City: Full sensitivity on Ka band, reduced sensitivity on K and X band.

Advanced: You can individually dial back the sensitivity on X, K, or Ka band anywhere from 100% sensitivity to 30% sensitivity in 10% increments. Helpful if you’re getting too much range and want to dial back the performance. (City Mode would be the equivalent of X/K dialed back to 10% sensitivity which is even lower than what you can select in Advanced mode so City mode is the lowest sensitivity option.)

For K band testing between Highway and City mode, see here.

GPS (R3 only)

Turn the R3’s GPS-related features on or off.

Speed Camera (R3 only)

Alert you to speed cameras ahead.

Redlight Cam (R3 only)

Alert you to redlight cameras ahead.

RLC Q-Ride (R3 only)

High speed muting for redlight cameras. This is useful for muting RLC alerts on nearby surface streets when you’re driving down the highway.

Note: If you’d like to delete an individual RLC/speedcam alert and prevent it from coming back again in the first place, double press the mute button when the alert is on screen and you will delete that particular camera from your detector’s database.


Voice announcements for radar and laser alerts to make it easier to identify different bands by sound. This is especially useful while you’re learning what the beeps for each individual band sound like.

X Band

Enable or disable X band.

X band has been mostly phased out around the country. It’s still actively in use in OH and NJ and a few small areas around the country.

To find out what bands are in use in your area, click here.

K Band

Enable or disable K band.

K band is in use virtually everywhere around the country. The notable exception is virtually all of CA where you can disable K band and cut off the false alerts you’d otherwise have to deal with using the detector’s filters.

To find out what bands are in use in your area, click here.

Ka Band

Enable or disable Ka band.

This is a very common police radar band and it’s in use nationwide. Definitely best to leave this on.


Enable or disable alerts when you get shot by laser.


67 ms K band POP detection.

K band POP is virtually nonexistent in real life and it’s best to leave this turned off for reduced false alerts. However, turning in on (and disabling the K Filter altogether) will give you maximum performance on K band since the detector is constantly scanning for brief K band now. This won’t be a good idea in most situations due to the increased false alerts, but if you’re out in the middle of nowhere and require the absolute maximum detection possible on K band, you can turn this on.

If you’d like to see a demo of K POP detection on the R3, click here.


67 ms Ka band POP detection.

Ka band POP is also nearly nonexistent in real life so it’s generally better to turn this off. Testing has also shown that POP on reduces Ka range.

K Filter

Filter out blind spot false alerts from other nearby vehicles. Definitely run with this on.

Ka Filter

Filter out false alerts on Ka band. Turning this on does affect performance, but only in a very minor way. It slows down reactivity by about 0.1s, so not much at all. Even with it on, the detector is still very fast. It has much less of an impact to performance than Escort’s RDR or the V1’s Ka Guard does. If you’d like maximum performance, turn this off.


The traffic sensor filter is designed to filter out K band traffic sensors along the highway in some areas. Oddly, the R1 and R3 can filter out many traffic sensors even with TSF off. Enabling it does slow down reactivity quite a bit on K band so it’s generally recommended to leave it off. However, if you have traffic sensors on your highways and experience regular and repeated K band falses from them, turn TSF on.

K Wide / Narrow

This gives you the option to slightly narrow the range of frequencies that the detectors scans for on K band, potentially cutting out some false alerts. For example, Honda/Acura BSM’s often transmit between 24.198-24.206ish so K Narrow will help filter out some, but not all of them.

Police officers are allowed to transmit throughout the entire range that K Wide covers so if K band is actively used in your area, it’s best to run with K Wide.

  • K Wide : 24.050 – 24.250 GHz
  • K Narrow: 24.080 – 24.200 GHz

Ka Wide / Narrow / Segmentation

Alert to all the entire Ka band spectrum or only the Ka frequencies where police generally operate on.

  • Ka Wide: 33.4 GHz – 36.0 GHz
  • Ka Narrow: 33.8 +/- 100 MHz, 34.7 +/- 120 MHz, 35.5 +/- 100 MHz

Ka Narrow is generally recommended for both ease of use and maximum performance (test here). Originally we were told that the detector is always scanning in Ka Wide and Ka Narrow adjusts only what frequencies the detector alerts to, not what it actually scans for. It turns out it does scan for a narrower range of frequencies which is why we see improved performance.

In general, Ka Narrow is fine for most of the US and Ka Wide is recommended if you encounter out of tune guns such as if you drive in New York.

Note: We’ve found that the 34.7 sweep actually scans up to 34.850 in Ka Narrow, possibly even higher.

Now if you want complete control over the Ka Segments, as of firmware 1.31, we now have 10 individual segments to choose from, just like other manufacturers offer. Here’s what each segment scans for:

  • Ka 1: 33.399 – 33.705
  • Ka 2: 33.705 – 33.903 (MPH radar guns at 33.8)
  • Ka 3: 33.903 – 34.191
  • Ka 4: 34.191 – 34.587 (Stalkers that drift low)
  • Ka 5: 34.587 – 34.803 (Stalker radar guns at 34.7)
  • Ka 6: 34.803 – 35.163 (Stalkers that drift high)
  • Ka 7: 35.163 – 35.379
  • Ka 8: 35.379 35.613 (Kustom and Decatur radar guns at 35.5)
  • Ka 9: 35.613 – 35.829
  • Ka 10: 35.829 – 36.001

Finally, if you’re wondering specifically which additional segments are recommended for different States, beyond the standard 2/5/8, please see this post.

Signal / KA Priority

Signal Priority gives alert priority to the strongest (usually closest) signal.

Ka Priority gives you band priority alerts where if you’re seeing multiple signals, alert priority will be given to Laser, Ka, K, & X in that order.

So for example if you’re getting a strong K band signal and a weak Ka band signal, Signal Priority will alert you to the K band signal while Ka Priority will focus on the Ka band signal. If you have the all threat display option enabled (discussed next), the secondary signal will show up on screen next to the primary signal, but the audio will always be focused on the primary signal.

All Threat Display

When the detector is picking up more than one signal, it can show the band and signal strength of any additional signals (up to 3 more) on the left side of the screen where the speedometer/voltmeter would normally go. When only one signal is present, that left side of the screen stays as a speedometer/voltmeter.

Uniden R3 display


Choose what color display you’d like. The options include: blue, amber, green, pink, gray, red, white, and purple.

Mode / Time (R3 only) / Scan

Change what is showing up on screen when you’re not getting an alert.

Mode (R1 & R3) will display the words Highway, City, or Advanced on screen.

Time (R3 only) will display the current time, determined by GPS.

Scan (R1 & R3) will display an animated heartbeat scanner on screen.

Display (R3 Only)

Choose what you want to be displayed on the left side of the screen including your speed, speed and compass, compass, voltage, and altitude.

My preference is for speed. I like speed and compass too, but sometimes when you’re stationary, especially before you start moving when you’re stationary, the compass just spins around and I find this annoying, but the compass can be helpful when driving.

Speed Unit (R3 Only)

Display your speed in MPH or KPH.

Tones for X / K / Ka / Laser

Choose between 12 different alert tones for any of the radar bands or for laser. Scroll through the different options to listen to what the alert tones sound like.

Auto Mute

After 3 seconds, the detector will drop the volume to level 1. Helpful for quieting the detector down after it gets your attention initially, but it may be too quiet for some. Some people also leave this disabled to make it easier to record the rampup and beeps on their dashcam for sharing later.

Auto Mute Volume

Adjust how loud or quiet the auto mute option reduces the volume level to. Very handy if the quietest option is too quiet, for example.


Makes the front two buttons underneath the display glow from behind so you can find them more easily at night. You can turn it off if you want a stealthier look.

Quiet Ride (R3 Only)

Low speed muting. This automatically mutes any and all X band and K band alerts, whether they’re real alerts or false alerts, when traveling below the speed you select. This feature is incredibly valuable around town to help deal with false alerts.

LimitSpeed (R3 Only)

Audibly warn you when you travel over a preset speed.

GMT (R3 Only)

Choose your time zone and the time will automatically be set via GPS.

  • GMT-05:00 – Eastern
  • GMT-06:00 – Central
  • GMT-07:00 – Mountain
  • GMT-08:00 – Pacific

DST (R3 Only)

Daylight savings time adjustment. If you’ve set your time zone but the clock is off by 1 hour, change this setting.

BAT Warning

Audible warning when your battery drops too low (below 11v).

BAT Saver (R3 Only)

If your detector is plugged into a power source that doesn’t turn off when you turn off your car, turn this on so your detector doesn’t drain your car battery.

It turns the detector off when you’ve been stationary (parked) for 30 minutes.

It also turns the detector off if the GPS hasn’t connected for an hour (like when you’re in a parking deck or garage).

Self Test

Run a self-diagnostic test every time you start your detector. You can turn this off for a faster and quieter bootup process.

Factory Reset?

Reset your detector’s settings to factory defaults.

If you’re running the R3, this does not delete your lockouts or manually marked locations.

Delete All Mute? (R3 Only)

Delete all of your GPS lockouts.

Delete All User? (R3 Only)

Delete all of your manually marked locations that you created by pressing the Mark button.


Tells you the firmware and DSP firmware version of the detector.

You can check for the current firmware version here.

DB Ver (R3 Only)

Date (version) of the current redlight camera database.

Uniden R3

General Recommended Settings

If you’re wondering what settings you should run, I’d recommend that you read over this guide and take the time to understand what each option does so you can make an informed decision. If you’d like a quick general recommendation that would work for most everyone nationwide, here’s a list of generic recommended settings. These are designed to be safe, give you good performance and filtering, and be applicable all across the country.

  • Highway
  • GPS: On
  • Speed Camera: On
  • Redlight Camera: On
  • RLC Q-Ride: 60mph
  • Voice: On
  • X Band: Off (If you drive in OH or NJ, turn this on.)
  • K Band: On (If you drive in CA, you can typically turn this off.)
  • Ka Band: On
  • Laser: On
  • K POP: Off
  • Ka POP: Off
  • K Filter: On
  • Ka Filter: Off
  • TSF: Off (If you get regular and constant false K band alerts on the highway, you may have traffic sensors in your area and should turn this on.)
  • K Wide
  • Ka Wide
  • Ka Priority
  • All Threat: On
  • Color: Red
  • Scan: Time
  • Display: Speed
  • Speed Unit: mph
  • Tones: default
  • Auto Mute: On
  • Auto Mute Vol: 2
  • Backlight: On
  • Quiet Ride: 25mph
  • Limit Speed: Off
  • GMT – (Choose your specific time zone)
  • DST: On
  • BAT Warning: On
  • BAT Saver: On
  • Self Test: Off

My Personal Settings

Here’s the settings that I run myself. This is not necessarily what’s best for you, but it’s what I typically use nowadays around here where it’s almost exclusively Ka and Laser. K band is very rare and so I really like the detector extra quiet on K band.

  • City
  • GPS: On
  • Speed Camera: On
  • Redlight Camera: On
  • RLC Q-Ride: 50mph
  • Voice: Off
  • X Band: Off
  • K Band: On
  • Ka Band: On
  • Laser: On
  • K POP: Off
  • Ka POP: Off
  • K Filter: On
  • Ka Filter: Off
  • TSF: Off
  • K Narrow
  • Ka Segmentation: Segments 2/5/8
  • Ka Priority
  • All Threat: On
  • Color: Blue
  • Scan: Time
  • Display: Speed + Compass
  • Speed Unit: mph
  • Tones: default
  • Auto Mute: On
  • Auto Mute Vol: 2
  • Backlight: Off
  • Quiet Ride: 35mph
  • Limit Speed: Off
  • GMT – 8 Hour
  • DST: On
  • BAT Warning: On
  • BAT Saver: Off
  • Self Test: Off

Note: This guide is current as of firmware 1.31. As new firmware updates are released, settings may be added or removed and performance may be impacted as well. I’ll update this as things change.

If you need to purchase either detector, you can purchase the R1 here and you can purchase the R3 here.


Skip to comment form

    • Ftlaud911 on June 16, 2017 at 9:11 pm
    • Reply

    Thank you!! Exactly what I was looking for. I love the R3, but honestly feel semi guilty now when I look at my V1 on my desk. I know I have a more sensitive detector, but it has served me very well for like a decade. Since your in touch with Uniden I have some recommendations at this time.

    1. They need to get better suction cups – mine was constantly falling or hanging by one. The big suction mount is very nice but huge
    2. They need to see why the R3 gets so hot which will shorten the life of the detector – someone on you tube did a test and mine is very warm to the touch
    3. Keep the firmware coming – says a ton about their commitment to the product
    4. Include a permanent mount
    5. Sounds seem odd – sent links to two of my friends about getting one and both commented they hated the sound
    6. Most important – add arrows (I would pay more to have them)
    7. Offer an upgrade program if they do come up with arrows, (one can hope)

    Overall I am very happy with my unit. Need to test my sunglasses so that might make me slightly annoyed.

    • "astaire" -(rdformum name) on June 17, 2017 at 12:29 pm
    • Reply

    Great post and very informative. Have decided to buy an R3 once the availability improves.

    Noted once error — the Ka band frequency range:

    “Ka Wide: 33.4 GHz – 33.6 GHz”

    1. oops lol, thanks for the heads up!

    • David Sammartino on June 17, 2017 at 5:32 pm
    • Reply

    Can I please ask you if the k band filter will slow r3 down alot? I have k band in my area.

    1. Virtually none. Leave the filter on so that you pay attention when it goes off. You’ve got LOTS of performance with the R3. What you need is to trust it when it goes off. 😉

    • Bill Wilson on June 18, 2017 at 4:01 pm
    • Reply

    Mrcd Detection R-3 or future model coming?

    1. I haven’t heard anything. Check out the upcoming Radenso Pro SE M-edition for MRCD detection:

    • Mara on June 21, 2017 at 10:25 am
    • Reply

    I would like to speak to an expert regarding radar and laser on human bodies. Can you email a telephone number.

    1. I’m not the person to talk to on the subject. I’m not sure who to point you towards either. Perhaps a scientist or university where this is studied specifically?

    • Anthony on June 21, 2017 at 3:16 pm
    • Reply

    I just picked up a MAX 360, does it pay to return it for the R3. Most of my driving is in the NY city area.

    1. That’s a really common question and it’s one I find tough to answer. Do you want the arrows? Do you want the autolockouts? Do you want the Bluetooth and app features? Have you found those features helpful so far?

      The Uniden has better long range performance. Have you been lacking range with your 360?

      The Uniden is still new and there’s some bug fixes and firmware updates that are coming out.

      The Max360 has a firmware update promised to help address some issues too, but we’re been waiting a while for that.

        • Anthony on June 21, 2017 at 4:09 pm
        • Reply

        I love all the features of the MAX360, that the main reason why i purchased it. I just which it had a bit more range.

        1. Welcome to the unending search for the ultimate radar detector. ?

    • Dennis on June 22, 2017 at 5:54 pm
    • Reply

    First time on this site
    Very lnformitive!!
    Just got the R3 ! It’s awesome
    Put my redline in the drawer
    Find it hard to read the manual
    Expected a comprehensive book like !

    1. Congrats on your new R3! 😀

    • Dennis on June 25, 2017 at 11:12 am
    • Reply

    Hi, my uniden r3 won’t display correct time
    -5 should be the correct selection for eastern time wit DST SET TO ON ????

    • Dennis on June 28, 2017 at 11:19 am
    • Reply

    Hi, my uniden r3 won’t display correct time
    -5 should be the correct selection for eastern time wit DST SET TO ON ????

    Leave a Reply

    1. If you have a GPS lock and thus the time is being displayed, but you’ve selected your time zone and it’s off by an hour, change the DST option.

    • David on July 28, 2017 at 6:04 pm
    • Reply

    Hey Vortex,thanks for all your time and effort for us out here.Quick question sir,is the audio jack for the R1 and R3 considered a mono or stereo jack?I just tried hookong up my external escort speaker i had running on my redline but i got no sound at all.Thanks for your time.

      • Patacogs on August 18, 2017 at 7:29 pm
      • Reply

      Have you solved this problem – I just did the entire install and am getting no sound – pretty frustrating … hope its an easy fix

        • LLP2112 on November 8, 2017 at 2:32 pm
        • Reply

        Has anyone figured this out? My R3 just arrived today and I plan to hardwire install this weekend with the powered Escort speaker so I’ll report back. Between my ham radio gear and my podcast rig, I have about a thousand and one audio jack adapters laying around, so I’m sure I’ll find one that works. Will report back! I like my music LOUD and have been spoiled with the Redline and Escort Live over Bluetooth so this will be an adjustment.

    • Howie on July 30, 2017 at 12:31 am
    • Reply


    I saw your review of the Uniden R3 and after doing some additional research went ahead and ordered it a couple of days ago and received it today. I only found out today after recently relocating to California for work and driving around with an Escort 9500ix on my windshield for the past three months that it is illegal.

    Blendmount seem to be pretty overpriced for their RVM mounts, so wondered what the options are. I ordered a RVM mount for a vehicle a few years ago but cannot find them for anything. They’re mount was very similar to the Blendmount but a whole lot less expensive. Are there any alternatives to the Blendmount that isn’t a windshield mount?

    I also wanted to say thanks for all of your hard work. I will donate as I am able. Thanks again.

    • Mike on August 9, 2017 at 6:05 pm
    • Reply

    Great post. I would really like to run Ka narrow but I live in NY. Where in NY are people seeing out of tune radar? I know most of the areas I travel they use 34.7 and the NYSP in particular seem to run very low power because they are much harder to detect then other agencies. So if there out of tune I would see readings greater then 34.82 GHz and less then 34.58 GHz?

      • Mike S on August 25, 2017 at 7:26 pm
      • Reply

      Live near Albany, NY. Primary threats here are 34.7 and some 35.5. No K band. Haven’t run into out of tune guns, in fact, most have been pretty well centered on 34.7 and 35.5. Ran my Redline 2/5/8 without issue for a long time after running non-segmented for a few months first. Since the R3’s 34.7 scanning width in Ka narrow mode is wider then the Red line’s seg 5, I will likely run Ka narrow when my R3 arrives next week. In the end, it’s whatever you feel comfortable width. Perhaps you put it on wide for a few months and take note of how well the radar units are tuned in your area like I did first.

    • Kenny Gall on August 12, 2017 at 2:50 pm
    • Reply

    Thank you for all you do… For input to Uniden, I find their update procedure a little challenging.. I’m not a real computer guy. I use one everyday at work but unzipping and Bat files are a little much.. If they could streamline the update procedure that would be awesome.. With that said, as a long time Escort user, I can’t put into words how happy i am that they even do updates to support their products, but if I can gripe just a little, the streamlining of the process would be great..

    1. Agreed. That’s something people are bringing up a lot and would be a good next step for them to address.

    • 13hangfire on August 23, 2017 at 4:44 pm
    • Reply

    Thanks for all of the updates and great info! I just purchased my R3 after owning an escort for decades! It was worth it’s weight in gold but woefully outdated. Your youtube vids convinced me it was time to come into the 21st century! haha Thanks again:)

  1. I just wanted to let you know that you are the best & most helpful person that explains everything with so much clarity and speed. You get to the meat of the coconut without going around the world telling folks about things that are not prevalent. I think if not companies are not paying you they should big time as you best I have ever heard as a speaker and products you talk about. Great future Dickson Kidd Harpersville, Alabama 35078

    1. Thank you very much! I really enjoy it and am grateful that me doing what I love is also so helpful to others. 🙂

      As for companies paying me, while I could go that route, I’d prefer not being sponsored or financially tied to any particular manufacturer. Being unbiased is really important to me so it’s something I choose to avoid. Instead I’ve set things up where I can be financially supported, but it really doesn’t matter which brand or product I recommend. When people buy a product using my affiliate links, watch my YouTube videos with ads, or support me on Patreon, this helps me to do what I do while still remaining objectively neutral towards different brands and manufacturers. 🙂

    • Clinton on September 19, 2017 at 8:25 am
    • Reply

    Can you tell me what is a good setup for the NC area using the R3…

    1. If you’d like personalized one-on-one support, you can book a private session with me here:

    • David Dufresne on October 6, 2017 at 10:58 am
    • Reply

    Vortex, you are the best! I have watched a ton of your youtube videos, read your reviews and instructions and learned so much. I just ordered my R3 from your site, I chatted with a guy who was really nice and helpful. Other buyers need to beware some of these sites are saying they have stock on the R3 but they don’t (radar roy site for sure is doing this). You’ll spend weeks waiting if your not careful. Mine is already in transit, can’t wait. Already have a buyer for my V1. 🙂

    • George W Lewis on October 15, 2017 at 10:23 am
    • Reply

    Can’t change my time zone. I live in IL, Central Time Zone

    • DaveFromRI on October 16, 2017 at 5:48 am
    • Reply

    I’d like to suggest another option in addition to “General Recommended Settings” and “My Personal Settings”, and maybe it would be called something like “New Field Test Settings”, meaning that you would use these settings after a new purchase for an extended period of time, to understand your local situations and radar utilization, and then on an as-demonstrated basis, start implementing filters.

    The thought being is that despite what is logged by users in the state, one might hit an off-tune gun (or such) that is very localized, and not published in any state database.

    Another name one could call it (not seriously) is: “Cover my a$$ for everything, and then let me turn off what I learn over time I don’t need.”

    • Michael Daugherty on October 25, 2017 at 2:48 pm
    • Reply

    Just bought a Uniden R3 and so far I think its a great detector. I also have a Escort Max 360 and Beltronics Magnum. I really like the Escort Max 360 because of the arrows and autolockouts. The Beltronics has really good range but is just too noisy for me, so i am selling it on Ebay. The Uniden saved my butt this morning on the way to work. It signaled like an IO shot and then went to constant on. I wasn’t sure where the signal was coming from, so I slowed and then turned off. The signal disappeared but a few moments later blasted me again. Then a few seconds later a Sheriff cruiser passed me by. I was pretty pleased that my R3 was working well. The only thing I did miss was the arrows on my 360, as it would have shown me that the threat was behind me. Anyways, I love it. I also wanted to say that I have been watching your videos for some time. They videos and your website have been instrumental in peaking my interest in radar detectors. Your videos have been a tremendous help. They are the best videos out there when it comes to radar detectors. I also loved watching Radar Roy. Thank you

    • Ben on November 9, 2017 at 2:42 pm
    • Reply

    Hi there Vortex,

    I really appreciate your YouTube channel for schooling me on radar in such a short period of time… Your videos are always well produced and easy to understand. Many thanks!!

    I live in Northern California (Bay Area) and recently picked up an R1 which I’m loving so far. Have it mounted on a Scoshe magnetic mount just to the left of center on my 18′ Subaru WRX’s dash. It clears the wipers and hood scoop and the rear-eye is unobstructed towards the rear. My car has BSD and Rear-Cross-Traffic Alert.

    I have had more Laser hits than Ka-band hits and wanted to get your opinion about what is happening in the following situations:

    R1 alerts to Laser in dense, nighttime rush-hour traffic while merging onto the freeway. No LEO spotted and no place for them to sit and point. Was behind a mid-2000s Lexus and may have had a big-rig behind me but can’t recall. This was five lanes of wall to wall traffic moving less than 15 mph.

    A few hours later…

    R1 alerts to Laser in nighttime freeway driving. there is congestion in all lanes, but everyone is moving right around the speed limit in the leftmost lanes. It was raining and I didn’t see any LEO, although I may have had one behind me as the headlights looked like a new-model Ford SUV. No radar hits at all, just laser…

    May this have anything to do with those systems that auto-track license plates for out-of-date registrations, warrants, and the like…? Trying to understand if this is even LE or maybe some other technology out there…

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    btw, for anyone curious this was Hwy 880 through Oakland just north of Oracle Arena.

    1. Maybe a vehicle up ahead with laser-based collision avoidance systems? I’ve noticed Mazda SUV’s, Infinitis, and Volvos are the biggest culprits. Cell phones can sometimes also trigger laser alerts if the detector can see the screen.

        • Ben on November 10, 2017 at 2:28 pm
        • Reply

        Sounds good! Thanks so much for your reply and quick shipping of the R1!

    • David on November 10, 2017 at 3:07 pm
    • Reply

    Just picked up an R3 but not sure it is working correctly. I am in Northern California and only had KA Segment on for bands 5, 8. Came up behind a CHP SUV and got a few chirps on the KA Band. Then nothing. Even as I got even with him and then in front of him as he exited the freeway, nothing.

    This morning got a KA hit and CHP was parked on opposite side of freeway with car pulled over. Got a couple of chirps when I could almost make out where he was pulled over and then nothing as I passed.

    I have a 2014 Mercedes E350 and wonder if the front windshield has factory installed tinting or the solar deflection that could be effecting the Uniden R3 severely? Not sure how to tell if windshield has the solar deflection.

    Appreciate any insights you can offer.

    1. Hey David, yeah it is very possible that your windshield could be impacting your radar detector’s ability to work properly. See this video for more info:

      If you test and find that your windshield is at fault and you don’t have an opening in your windshield where radar can pass through, you’ll need to get a remote mount radar detector installed in your grill area instead.

        • David Broderick on November 11, 2017 at 1:41 pm
        • Reply

        A street by my house has a K Band Speed Sign. I turned on K Band and tested the R3 while parked 1/2 mile away and the signal is passing through the windshield no problem.

        If the windshield were the issue would it effect K band differently than KA band?

        Also, my 2014 E350 also has Radar Cruise Control and I am thinking this could be the issue. Do you have any experience or know any one with Radar Cruise Control having similar issues?

        Going to test the same sign while driving.

        1. Ah nice. If it’s detecting K band just fine, Ka band would be the same. It shouldn’t be different per band like that. If you’re seeing the detector sometimes not alert the way you think it should, it’s likely instant on or something along those lines.

          As for radar cruise control, that’s a really mixed bag. There’s lots of combinations of detectors, vehicles, and so on. Sometimes it does cause issues, yeah, and sometimes it doesn’t.

            • David Broderick on November 12, 2017 at 3:27 pm

            Did another test today with the K Band running the Dynamic Cruise Control and it worked just fine.

            CHP cruisers normally runs with the KA Band Radar on all the time and no Instant ON as far as I know. Guessing my detector is defective. Will test this week with everything enabled to see if KA band works at all this week.

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