Buy a Radar Detector

Best Radar Detectors for 2017, Buyer’s Guide

(Updated June 2017)

There’s lots of fantastic radar detectors out there that can all help you avoid speeding tickets and will pay for themselves many times over, but which one is the best and which one is right for you?

LRD950 Redline Max360 V1 cropped horiz

Everyone wants to know which radar detector is the “best,” but radar detectors are like cars or cell phones in that there isn’t one option that’s universally the best choice for every person in every situation. Which detector you should buy really comes down to your own personal preferences and where you drive and needs so it’s not so much about which radar detector is universally “the best” but rather which radar detector is the best for you.

The radar detectors I’ll recommend to you are all the very best on the market. Any one of them will do the job and help you avoid speeding tickets. When a police officer is actively using radar up ahead of you, any one of these detectors will generally off plenty of time to slow down and help you avoid a speeding ticket while also filtering out many false alerts so that you’ll actually pay attention to it when it goes off. (False alerts are one of the biggest complaints with radar detectors so this is really important.) Some detectors may offer longer range or better filtering than others, of course, and every detector has its own specialty, kind of like how a sports car, an SUV, and a hybrid will all get you from A to B, but they go about it in different ways and thus suit different people.

Let’s take a look at which detector would suit you based on your personal needs, where you drive, your budget, and even your personality and preferences.


How to Choose a Radar Detector?

What should you look for when deciding which radar detector you should buy? What features and options actually matter? Here’s what to consider when selecting a radar detector:

City / Highway Driving?

If you drive primarily on the highway, especially in rural areas, a high performance detector offering maximum detection range is the really the main thing you’d need. In that case, the Escort Redline would be your classic highway detector.

However, if you also drive in the city, you’ll want a detector with GPS so that the detector can learn where all the stationary false alerts are located around town from shopping centers with automatic door openers and those “your speed is” radar signs and filter out all of the stationary sources of non-police radar around town such as automatic door openers from shopping centers, drugstores, as well as radar-based speed signs. GPS is also handy for alerting you to redlight cameras and speed cameras in use in your area. (GPS is also helpful on the highway to filter out shopping centers you drive past that are right next to the highway.) Some detectors have a GPS chip built in while others will require your phone running an app to use your phone’s GPS. (For complete information about the benefits of GPS in a radar detector, read this article.)

Easy to Use vs. Maximum Control

Some detectors are designed to be easy to use and plug-and-play so you can put it on your windshield and it does everything straight out of the box. The Max and Max360 are perfect examples. Other detectors like the V1 may be able to do the same things, but they’ll require more setup, configuration, and a cell phone to do the same thing, but they give you more control, more options, and sometimes even better performance so they’re popular with power users.

Windshield Mount vs. Remote Mount

Radar detectors come in two different designs. Windshield mount detectors are little boxes that attach to your windshield. Remote mount radar detectors are custom installed in the grill of your car and you put a controller and display somewhere inside your vehicle.

Windshield mount detectors are more affordable, easier to install, and there’s many more options. Remote mount detectors are more expensive and often require professional installation (though you can do it yourself), but in return they offer the very best in performance, you get a cleaner install, and your radar detector is out of sight to police officers and potential thieves.

Are Radar Detectors Legal?

Radar detectors are legal in 49 out of the 50 states. They are only illegal in Virginia and Washington D.C. (The penalty if caught is usually a small fine and no points, but they no longer confiscate detectors.)

They are also illegal on military bases, in commercial vehicles over 10,000 pounds, and in all vehicles over 18,000 pounds. (Penalties if caught include loss of your CDL if you’re a truck driver so this can be very risky.)

In Canada they are illegal in most provinces, with the exception of BC, AB, & SK where they are legal. (Penalties vary in different provinces and can include financial penalties and even confiscation or your car being impounded, even if your radar detector is turned off and tucked away.)

In areas where radar detectors are illegal, the police often use radar detector detectors (RDD’s) to find drivers who use radar detectors. There are two different RDD’s in use, the VG-2 and the Spectre. The VG-2 is an ancient RDD that most RD’s are now immune to detection from. A few police departments still use them, but many have since upgraded to the Spectre. There’s different models of the Spectre, but the Spectre’s can detect most RD’s and is what most officers use these days. Many RD companies will advertise immunity from the VG-2, but that’s virtually irrelevant since it’s the Spectre that we’re concerned with, particularly the latest version which is the Spectre Elite. However, there are many detectors nowadays that are immune to the Spectre Elite, including most of the detectors on this list.

Note: In many states like California, it’s also illegal to mount a radar detector to your windshield so you may want to consider a Blendmount and hang it underneath your rearview mirror.


Most good windshield mount detectors are in the $300-500 range. Remote mount detectors range from $500-3800, depending on options, plus installation. There are many less expensive cheapy ones, especially windshield mounts, but they’re generally a waste of money, give poor range, and do a lousy job at filtering false alerts so you’ll quickly get annoyed with it and want to throw it out the window. Opting for a quality radar detector is recommended. Considering that speeding tickets bring not only the cost of the ticket, but also hikes to your insurance premiums, potential court costs, and lawyer fees, etc., it’s generally recommended to get a quality product that offers you a solid level of protection. You gotta pay to play.

Not to mention that you’ll also want to get a good set of laser jammers as well since officers now use laser all over the country and radar detectors don’t help against laser. Laser jammers will generally run you $1000-2000 for the jammers plus installation so that’s something to keep in mind as well when putting together your countermeasure kit. Radar detectors and laser jammers go hand in hand as part of a complete kit.


Best Windshield Mount Radar Detectors

Uniden DFR7: Best Bang for the Buck, City/Highway Driving ($269)

Uniden DFR7

This is the standard recommendation for anyone looking for a good all-around radar detector for both city and highway driving, without breaking the bank. It offers a more performance and capability than most anything else in this price range, making it a great bang for the buck.

You’ll get great range on the highway plus it does a great job at filtering out cars with blind spot monitoring systems so you won’t constantly get bombarded with false alerts. It’s actually one of the best filters available at any price.

It also has a GPS chip built in which makes it very helpful around town. The GPS chip will allow you to teach it where the known stationary false alerts are from your grocery stores and shopping centers nearby so that you don’t have to constantly keep pressing the mute button. It can also mute all alerts at low speeds when you’re not driving fast, plus it can alert you to redlight cameras and speed cameras around town so it makes a great detector around town too. If you need RDD immunity, the DFR7 is stealth.

The DFR7 sells for $269. Since prices sometimes fluctuate, there’s two places I’d recommend you look to buy the DFR7.

Click here to buy the Uniden DFR7 from Amazon.

Click here to buy the Uniden DFR7 from BRD.

Once you select the DFR7, here’s your tutorial on how to set it up.


Uniden DFR6: Affordable entry level detector for highway drivers ($179)

Uniden DFR6

If you drive mostly on the highway and you don’t need the GPS functionality, you can save some cash by getting the Uniden DFR6. It’s the same thing as the DFR7 with the same level of performance and ability to filter out blind spot falses, except it doesn’t have a GPS chip so you won’t get the GPS lockouts, low speed muting, or red light camera functionality. If you don’t need those features, the DFR6 is a great choice.

Honestly I still think the DFR7 is a better pick because those GPS lockouts are so helpful around town… Often times even driving down the highway you’ll pass shopping centers or strip malls nearby and you’ll pick up false alerts from their automatic door openers nearby so the GPS lockouts are really helpful even on the highway. However, if you’re looking for the lowest up front cost, the DFR6 is the best low priced detector I’d recommend.

Click here to buy the Uniden DFR6 from Amazon.

Click here to buy the Uniden DFR6 from BRD.

Once you select the DFR6, here’s your tutorial on how to set it up.


Uniden R3: High end, long range, high performance radar detector ($399)

This guy is an absolute monster. I don’t remember the last time people have gotten this excited about a radar detector. It’s the successor to the DFR7, an upgraded and digital version of it. For you guys looking for the “best” radar detector, this is one of the two radar detectors I’ll point you to. (This and the Max360 below.) This detector has the highest performance and longest range out of any radar detector ever produced, no matter the price, beating out the previous long range King, the Escort Redline, while offering all the same capabilities, more features, better false alert filtering, and a more affordable price. It’s insane. When it comes to picking up radar at a distance to give you time to slow down, even in trickier situations, while also giving you the filtering you want, this is it.

There’s actually two versions of this detector, the Uniden R1 without GPS (like the DFR6) and the Uniden R3 with GPS (like the DFR7). In my mind, the R3 is the one to go for because the added GPS functionality for GPS lockouts and low speed muting make it a much more usable and well-rounded detector.

You’ve probably noticed that I’ve been recommending Uniden detectors so far. When it comes to offering the best bang for the buck, high performance, effective filtering, and an affordable price, these guys are killing it.

If you need RDD immunity, this detector is stealth to RDD’s as well.

The R3 is the detector that I’m now running as my primary detector and for those of you guys looking for the “best” radar detector out there, this may very well be it.

Click here to buy the Uniden R3 from BRD.

Once you select the R3, here’s your tutorial on how to set it up.

Note: R3’s are pretty much unavailable until more arrive from overseas in July. The waiting list is hundreds of people long. R1’s, on the other hand, are now readily available at just $299 so if you don’t need the GPS functionality, you can save some cash, get a detector now, and purchase the R1.

Click here to buy the Uniden R1 from BRD.


Max360: Simple to Use, Plug and Play, Arrows, All the Bells and Whistles ($649)


The other detector that I’d consider for the title of “best radar detector” for most people would be the Escort Max360. It may not offer quite the range as the Uniden R3, but it offers a number of other benefits.

In short, it provides more helpful information and is more automated and plug-and-play which is great if you’re new to radar detectors.

It adds arrows to help you locate the source of the threat which is quite helpful in practice, the GPS lockouts are completely automatic so as you drive around, the detector will automatically start learning and remembering false alerts without you having to teach it so it gets quieter the more you use it.

You can also pair it with your cell phone to share realtime alerts to/from the cloud with other drivers so you benefit from other drivers around you as well. (You can do a similar thing by running Waze on your phone, but that’s again more manual.) This will also allow you to display the speed limit for the road you’re on right on the display of your detector.

Now it’s not the cheapest detector out there. In fact, at a retail price of $650 (though sometimes discounted online), it’s actually the most expensive windshield-mount detector on the market. There are other detectors that offer longer range at a comparable or even lower price. What you’re getting with this detector is not the absolute highest performance on the market, but rather very good all-around performance in the majority of situations as well as all the bells and whistles while still being easy to use and doing everything for you automatically. That’s the main appeal of this detector. If you need RDD immunity, the Max360 is detectable.

If I was to give my brother or parents a radar detector, people who aren’t radar detector experts and don’t want to be, yet they still want something that works well and can do everything for them once it’s up on their windshield, this is the one I’d recommend.

You can purchase the Escort Max360 here.

Once you select the Max360, watch this tutorial to learn how to use your Max360.


Escort Passport Max: Plug-and-play, Automatic, City/Highway Driving (~$299)

Escort Passport Max

If you like the idea of the Max360 with its automatic lockouts, but you don’t want to pay that high of a price and you don’t want arrows, take a look at the Escort Passport Max. It’s a direct competitor to the DFR7, and its main benefit is that it offers automatic lockouts.

Both the Max and DFR7 offer basically the same features. The Max gives up a little bit of maximum performance in exchange for being the easier to use and more automatic radar detector. The range is still good enough for most situations, practically speaking, and for people who truly want a plug and play experience, this is what the Max is geared towards. If you need RDD immunity, the Max is detectable.

Now the Max is being discontinued which is why it can be found so inexpensively. It used to retail for $550 but can now be found online for about $299 or so while supplies last, though the price fluctuates quite a bit so be sure to check current pricing. Its successor, the Max2, has also since been discontinued, but it is still available as well. The Max2 adds a bluetooth chip inside the detector so you can pair it with your phone to make it easier to adjust your detector’s settings, use your phone as an additional display, and get those realtime alerts to/from the cloud with other Escort owners via Escort Live. You can add bluetooth functionality to your Max by purchasing an Escort Live smartcord or Escort Live hardwire cord, but if you’re gonna go that route in the end, get the Max2 instead because that’s a cleaner solution.

You can purchase the Escort Passport Max here.

You can purchase the Escort Passport Max2 here.

Once you select a Max or Max2, watch this tutorial to learn how to set it up.


V1 & YaV1 or V1Driver: Arrows, Maximum Control, & Customizability for Tech Savvy People ($449)


Now if you want all the bells and whistles like the Max360 like the arrows and GPS lockouts without paying for the full price of a 360, if you’re more technically minded, you don’t mind pairing your detector with a phone, and you’re cool with taking more time to learn the detector and program some advanced features, the V1 is a great option. It’s fairly limited and chatty straight out of the box (many people complain it falses too much before they learn how to program it properly), but you can improve it considerably by pairing it with a cell phone and running an app to configure it more and add the GPS-based functionality that other detectors offer on their end.

Once you get it fully set up with your phone, you’ll have an experience very similar to the Max360 (this is what the Max360 is actually designed to directly compete against), except with more control, more advanced lockouts, and all at a lower price. It’s a very appealing package, but it takes more external accessories (bluetooth module, phone, third party apps) and setup and configuration to do what the Max360 can do automatically. For a more info, check out my complete comparison between the Max360 and the V1/YaV1.

If you’re running an Android, you can pair it with an Android phone and run the free app YaV1. There’s definitely a learning curve to setting this app up, but my tutorials will guide you through it. You’ll need the Android bluetooth module (V1Connection) to do this. (Note: There’s been an update to allow Android phones to use the V1C LE which the iPhone uses, but YaV1 still requires the Android only V1C so get that one.)

If you’re running an iPhone, you can purchase V1Driver from the app store for $9.99. You’ll need the iPhone bluetooth module (V1Connection LE) to do this.

If my parents wanted a radar detector, since they’re not very tech savvy and they’d want a simple plug-and-play experience, I’d recommend the Max360 for them. The V1 is great, but it really does require your phone to get all the functionality and information you’d want, plus you need your phone to do some of the more advanced and required programming. The Max360 lets you do all this stuff in one integrated package and it’s far more plug and play which is why I think that for most people, the 360 is a better choice. This is where it largely comes down to your personal preferences.

If you need a detector that is RDD immune, the V1 is detectable.

If you decide on the V1, I’d actually recommend you NOT buy from Amazon. If you do, you’ll pay more than full price and get no warranty. People resell them there at a profit. Buy a V1 directly from Valentine. If you’re considering a used V1, watch this video first. Finally, once you purchase a V1 ($400), Android bluetooth module ($50), and pair it with your Android phone, check out this tutorial to set up your V1 / YaV1. If you go for the iPhone version, get the iPhone version of the bluetooth module (V1C LE) and purchase V1Driver. V1Driver is basically ready to go out of the box, but it does have some options which are all explained within the app itself.

You can purchase the Valentine 1 here.

Bluetooth modules: Android, iOS

Apps: YaV1 for Android, V1Driver for iPhone


Radenso XP: Wonderfully Quiet Urban Detector ($399)

Finally, if you want a detector that offers a lot of control, is nice and quiet when it comes to false alerts, and doesn’t require a cell phone to program or use, check out the Radenso XP. Not only does it offer plenty of performance, but the filtering options are amazing so it doesn’t annoy me or my girlfriend. In fact I gave this detector to my girlfriend after she asked for a detector that “doesn’t beep all the time.” The blind spot filtering is excellent, the low speed muting keeps the detector nice and quiet around town, and you’ve got GPS lockouts.

The XP also has some fantastic muting options that help make it one of the quietest detectors around. The lockouts are great for teaching the detector to mute the false alerts are in areas I’ve driven before, but what about in new areas? Well besides low speed muting, you also have the ability to tell the detector to audibly mute ALL X and K band alerts and only alert you visually. It will alert you if there’s Ka or Laser which is almost always a legitimate alert. Now muting K band can be risky because your detector won’t beep if police officers are using K band radar guns around you so to address this, the detector provides more visual alert options like blinking at you when it detects an alert or even keeping the screen off and only lighting up when there’s an alert to ensure it gets your attention. This way the detector can still get your attention and tell you what you need to know without constantly beeping and annoying others in the car in the process. One thing I do want to mention, however, is that those lockouts don’t always stick over time. You may lock out a signal and yet the next time you drive by, the detector may alert you again anyway. The other features are great, but Radenso is still having difficulty getting the lockouts to stick.

Radenso’s customer service is also excellent should any issues arise over time, they’re very active with their users to fix any bugs or add helpful new features, and they’re really dedicated to making an awesome detector. This detector reminds me of an Android or an iPhone in that it’s a great product that continues to receive updates and improvements over time. For example, they’re continuing to update and improve the lockouts, voices, alert presentation styles, ease of access of menu settings, and so on. Oh, it’s RDD immune too. Overall, it’s a great detector that continues to get better over time.

Click here to buy the Radenso XP from Amazon.

Click here to buy the Radenso XP from BRD.

Once you select the Radenso XP, here’s your tutorial on how to set it up.


Best Remote Mount Radar Detectors

Now if you don’t want a radar detector hanging off your windshield that’s visible to police officers, other drivers, and potential thieves, or you prefer a cleaner and more factory look in your cabin, a remote mount radar detector is the way to go. These are also great options if you drive a higher end luxury car like a Mercedes, Porsche, Range Rover, or Tesla that has a heated or metallic windshield because those windshields may prevent electronics like radar detectors, GPS receivers, or even toll passes from working properly. If that applies to your vehicle, you’ll definitely want to opt for a remote detector instead.

Remote mount detectors offer top of the line performance, equal to or better than windshield mount detectors. They will also require professional installation since the radar detector antenna itself is installed in your grill, you’ll install a controller and display somewhere in your cabin, and you’ll have it permanently installed and wired in your car. If you’re handy with electronics and wiring, you can do it yourself instead.

There are a number of different remote mount radar detectors out there. Depending on your setup and budget, these are the Top 3 Remote Radar Detectors that I’d recommend:


Stinger VIP: Top of the Line, High Performance, All the Bells and Whistles (~$2,500-$3,800)

Stinger VIP


If you’re looking for the very best high end remote radar detector available, the answer to that would be the Stinger VIP. This detector offers just about everything you could possibly want. It’s a very advanced and sophisticated detector that offers long range performance, excellent BSM filtering, low speed muting, GPS lockouts without requiring a phone, the lockouts are automatic, you get red light camera alerts, complete immunity from radar detector detectors, an optional rear antenna to get directional information, MRCD detection… the works.

Now when this detector originally came out here in the US it sounded great on paper with all these features, but the more we tested it, the more we found that the detector was actually really buggy, many features like BSM filtering and autolockouts didn’t work as advertised, it would sometimes inadvertently mute police radar, and on. Because of this, Stinger has completely rewritten the firmware from scratch and it’s finally turning the detector into the ultimate dream detector that it was born to be. With the latest firmware, it now offers a significantly improved experience, the BSM filtering is now excellent (it’s the only radar detector on the market that’s capable of filtering out blind spot falses from Hondas/Acuras, for example), the arrows now work properly, the laser jammers work well, it’s completely RDD immune, and most of the bugs that we saw earlier have now been addressed. This is now looking like a top notch system.

You can purchase the VIP directly from Cliff at Stinger USA. Cliff can help you find the ideal antenna placement options for your specific vehicle since that is very important. The standard Stinger VIP retails for $2790. The optional rear antenna is available for an additional $1500. To save some money, use the coupon code “VortexRadar” to save 10% off your purchase of the Stinger VIP. Once you do this, the Stinger costs $2511 for the standard single antenna setup or $3861 for the dual antenna setup.

Click here to buy the Stinger VIP.


Net Radar Antenna: Remote Detector with Fantastic Filtering to Integrate with your AntiLaser Priority ($499 – $899)

Net Radar antenna

This is quickly becoming one of the most popular remote mount radar detectors out there. If you’re running the AntiLaser Priority laser jamming system (currently the best laser jammer on the market), it has the ability to integrate with several different remote radar detectors. You can take the radar detector antenna, plug it into your ALP, and your ALP serves as the “brains” for the radar detector antenna giving you a fully integrated radar detector & laser jammer package.

The Net Radar is designed to be an all-around excellent radar detector giving you an awesome bang for the buck. In my testing I’ve found that it can hold its own relative to other top end radar detectors on the market. Other detectors may offer a little better range, but the Net Radar is designed to offer you plenty of advanced warning time while also offering outstanding blind spot filtering capabilities, the ability to do GPS lockouts when paired with a phone, optionally add multiple antennas to get arrows, all while doing this at a reasonable price. It’s designed to be the best bang for the buck.

With the Net Radar, you can run it with one, two, or even up to three antennas simultaneously.

Your primary antenna will be facing forward and acting as your traditional radar detector antenna.

You can add a second rear facing antenna ($399) to give you directional information (arrows) like the V1, Max360, or Stinger VIP.

Finally, you can add a third antenna specifically for MRCD support if you live or drive in Canada, just like the Stinger VIP offers. The MRCD is a specialized low powered radar gun that is very difficult to detect and requires some specialized hardware to pick up. It is primarily used overseas, but in North America we’re seeing it in Canada in Alberta and Quebec. If you need this capability, you can purchase the MRCD antenna for $299.

This detector is not completely stealth to RDD’s. It’s detectable when the officer is in close proximity. You can watch a video illustrating this here.

Now unlike some of the other antennas out there that can integrate with the ALP, this one comes with the Radar/GPS module you need to connect this to your ALP ($99) plus the GPS antenna ($59) so it’s a better deal than your other options where you have to purchase those accessories separately. Additionally, if you also pick up the Bluetooth module ($99), you’ll be able to see the frequency on your phone, change settings and update your ALP’s in your car without having to download a file to your computer and bring it out to your car on a USB stick which is super handy, and you can also get GPS lockouts. The lockouts are sort of manual, sort of automatic and they require your phone (Android or iPhone) to work.

If you don’t want to pair it with your phone, you can use the HiFi module ($99) which is essentially an external speaker for your ALP. This makes the alerts louder so they’re easier to hear when driving, plus you get voice alerts to tell you what radar band or laser gun you’re detecting. It also makes it much easier to navigate the menus. With the Net Radar, you will want to add either the HiFi module or the Bluetooth module. They are $99 each and are not included. You can run both at the same time too which is what I do. This way you get the GPS lockout functionality and update things through your phone as needed. When running both, the bluetooth takes priority so the audio will play out of your phone or your car’s stereo if your phone is paired with your stereo. If you don’t have your phone with you or aren’t using it, the system will fall back to using the HiFi module and play through its dedicated speaker. If you run Bluetooth only without the HiFi module, everything will still work, but if you’re not running your phone, the sounds will play through your standard’s control pad and they will sound different so I recommend the HiFi for louder and consistent alerts.

So to summarize if you do a lot of driving in the city and want your GPS lockouts, or if you want to see the radar signal frequency, get the Bluetooth module. That’s the recommended solution.

If you don’t want to putz around with your phone and don’t need lockouts, the HiFi module is the way to go.

If you want to use the lockouts and phone but want your system to work even if you aren’t using your phone, get both.

Click here to buy the Net Radar antenna.

Click here to buy the Bluetooth module.

Click here to buy the HiFi module.

So Which Radar Detector Is Best?

Boy I wish there was a simple answer to that because it really depends. They each have their pros and cons, as you can see, but let me give you my top picks from this list to simplify things a bit.

Uniden R3

One of my two recommendations for people looking for the “best radar detector” is the Uniden R3. It’s an absolute beast in terms of performance, giving you the best possible ability to detect police radar (arguably the most important job of a radar detector) while also effectively filtering out false alerts both on the highway and around town, making it a top notch all-around detector. Click here to purchase.

Escort Max360

Max360 teeny thumbIf you’re the type of person who likes having all the bells and whistles, you want arrows to locate the threat, and you want the detector to do everything for you so you get an easy to use experience, pick the Max360. Click here to purchase.

Uniden DFR6

Uniden DFR6 teeny thumbIf you’re looking for more of an inexpensive entry level detector, the DFR6 is your best affordable choice. It offers great performance and blind spot filtering. Without GPS it can’t filter out nearby speed signs and shopping centers, but if you’re constantly doing highway driving in new areas, this is the most inexpensive detector I’d recommend. Click here to purchase.

Uniden DFR7

Uniden DFR7 teeny thumbThis is the standard go-to recommendation for your all-around detector with good performance and good false filtering for both city and highway without dropping too much cash. If you’re looking for the best bang for the buck, I’d say the DFR7 is it. Click here to purchase.


Valentine One with YaV1 or V1Driver

V1 teeny thumbIf you want a good all around package with arrows and to have a solid understanding of the threats around you, if you’re tech savvy and are cool with a bit of a learning curve, get the V1 with YaV1. If you’re an iPhone user, run V1Driver with your V1. Click here to purchase.

Stinger VIP

Stinger VIP teeny thumbIf you want an extremely capable and advanced remote radar detector, the Stinger VIP is the way to go. It offers all the key features you’d need, it supports multiple antennas for arrows, it can be paired with Stinger’s teeny tiny yet effective laser jammers, it’s continually being updated and improved, and it’s an effective high end option. (Use the coupon code “VortexRadar” for 10% off.) Click here to purchase.

Net Radar

Net Radar teeny thumb

If you’re running an AntiLaser Priority laser jammer and you want a remote radar detector too, the Net Radar is a top pick and the best bang for the buck. You get good performance, filtering, and manual GPS lockouts when you add your phone. You also have support for multiple antennas to add arrows to help you locate the threat. Click here to purchase.


Bonus Accessories

Hardwire cables: Radar detectors come with a cigarette lighter power cable. You can optionally upgrade to a hardwire cable for a permanent and clean installation with no unsightly cables hanging down your dash and taking up your cig. lighter port. Click here to see your hardwire cable options and click here to read the installation guide.

Blendmount: Radar detectors come with a suction cup mount to attach to your windshield. In some areas it’s illegal to mount things to your windshield and it’s also nice to not have suction cups on your windshield or even suction cup rings when you remove them, not to mention suction cups sometimes fail which means your radar detector would fall down on your dash, so a nice upgrade is the Blendmount which hangs your detector under your rearview mirror. Click here to learn more about the Blendmount.

Waze: Waze is a free navigation app for your phone like Google Maps that allows drivers to report traffic, accidents, and where police officers are positioned in realtime. When you see an officer on the side of the road looking to give tickets, you can mark him in the app and alert other drivers. You can also see alerts from other drivers in realtime so it’s a great complement to your radar detector to add an additional layer of protection. You can download it for iOS, Android, and Windows Phone.

Laser Jammers: Radar detectors are great against radar but they don’t help against police officers running laser. To combat laser you’ll want a set of laser jammers for your car. Fortunately the choice for jammers is much easier and the best on the market in this case is the AntiLaser Priority. Proper setup and configuration is critical with jammers so you’ll also want to check out my complete ALP setup guide as well.


No matter which detector you choose listed here, you’re going to wind up with an excellent unit. It will do a great job of picking up police radar, it can help you filter out those pesky false alerts, and it can easily pay for itself many times over by helping you avoid speeding tickets from police shooting radar.

I’d also recommend reading about the Top 10 Questions About Radar Detectors to better understand some of the most frequently asked questions about how they work, legalities, where to mount them in your vehicle, and so on.

If you’ve found this guide helpful, please share it online so others can benefit from it too. When you purchase, you can use the links I’ve included which supports me without costing you a dime. If you’d like to support my site personally, you can sign up and contribute as a Patreon member as well.

Happy driving and enjoy. 🙂