The Uniden LRD950 is pretty straightforward to set up and the menu options are all pretty intuitive. You can watch the video above where I guide you through the buttons and menu options available on the detector, or you can read over my explanation of the different options below.
You can also check out the LRD950 manual directly. 🙂
Press the menu button on top to access the menu. Press the Vol – and Vol + buttons to go back and forth through the menu options. Press the menu button to change any setting. Press and hold the menu button to exit the menu.
Don’t press the Power button! It’ll turn off the detector and so you’ll want to avoid this when programming, haha 😀
Turn the GPS and GPS related features like lockouts, low speed muting, and redliight camera alerts on/off.
Enable/disable alerts when you pass known speed cameras.
Enable/disable alerts when you pass known redlight cameras.
Enable to hear the detector let you know what band (ie. K band, Ka band) of radar your detector is picking up. If you don’t want to hear the voice and prefer listening to the beeps and the rampup, turn the voice off.
Most places in the country don’t use X band, with a few notable exceptions like OH, NJ, and a few places in OR and NC. X band is an older technology with large, bulky antennas so it’s been phased out in favor of radar guns with more compact antennas like K and Ka. Because X band isn’t in use in most parts of the country, most people can turn X band off altogether.
See this post to find out what bands are in use in your area.
Enable/disable K band detection.
K band is in use in much of the country. If it’s not in use in your area, consider yourself lucky and turn it off altogether. You’ll save yourself from many false alert headaches. That said, if you don’t need K band detection, you won’t need the K band filtering options the LRD950 provides and should probably look at the LRD850 which is the same thing but without the GPS. It offers the same performance but costs less. If you do need K band, the LRD950 is a good choice and you’ll want to leave K band turned on.
Ka band is almost always a legitimate alert when you receive it and it’s in use almost everywhere in the country so it’s generally best to leave it on.
Enable/disable laser detection.
POP is a type of radar specifically designed to be super fast and defeat radar detectors by being too fast for them to pick up on. However, POP mode isn’t always accurate, it’s not legal to issue tickets, and it’s generally not used in practice. Turning it on on your detector generally hurts performance and leads to false POP alerts, so the standard recommendation is to simply to POP detection off and not to worry about it.
Filter out some annoying K band false alerts. There’s two different versions of the K band filter, depending on which firmware version you’re running.
The earlier versions of the LRD950 firmware (1.37 and older) didn’t have any TSR-like delay with their K band filter and so they didn’t have the performance penalty that most detectors have with their K band filters. This was pretty awesome because you still get maximum range and reaction time with the filter on while also getting some K band filtering. However, if you have traffic sensors in use in your area, the lack of a delay in the filter meant that the detector was basically useless in those areas and would constantly alert to K band.
Because of this, Uniden released an updated version of their firmware with a delay (1.51 and newer) which added a ~0.8 sec delay to K band with the filter enabled. Any shots shorter than that would be filtered out. Any shots longer than that and you’d get an alert.
If you have traffic sensors in your area, and you can check by referencing the RDFGS and seeing if TSR is needed in your area, I’d recommend that you definitely run 1.51 or newer and enable the K band filter.
If you don’t, the K band filter is nonetheless very helpful for filtering out false alerts from vehicles with collision avoidance systems.
You can download various versions of the LRD950 firmware here.
Enable/disable the little dot that sweeps side to side across the face of the detector’s main screen. I find it a little distracting so I turn it off, but some people like it as it reminds them that their detector is like a sentry, continuously scanning the road ahead.
Choose what you want to have displayed on the detector’s display while you’re driving normally and there’s no alert.
Speed / Compass / Voltage / Altitude / Off
I generally like to display my speed. The compass is handy too to help yourself get oriented when driving around. The altimeter is pretty cool when you’re driving through the mountains and are wondering what your elevation is. 🙂
Display speeds in mph or km/h.
I normally run mph since I live in the States, but I find the km/h option handy when I go up to Canada.
Automatically reduces the volume of an alert after 3 seconds so that it gets your attention initially and then reduces the volume to a less annoying level while still allowing you to track the signal. If you get a new signal, it will alert to that new signal at normal volume.
Auto mute on is less annoying, especially for longer alerts or when you have other people in the car who aren’t as into radar detectors. Auto mute off is handy for tracking the signal at normal volume the entire time, especially if you’re running a dashcam and want to share your saves with others.
If enabled, it makes the Mute and Mark buttons glow.
Automatically mutes all signals if you’re traveling below a preset speed. Very handy for keeping the detector quiet around town. You’ll still get visual alerts, but radar and laser alerts are audibly muted.
Set what time zone you’re in.
Enable/disable daylight savings time.
Warns you if your battery level gets low (below 11 volts). A handy feature if you’re running your car off your battery with your engine turned off. It will help reduce the chances of getting a dead battery.
Automatically turns the detector off after 1 hour of sitting still (traveling at 0 mph) or if you have no GPS lock for 1 hour (like if you parked in a parking garage). This feature is handy if your radar detector is plugged into a port that doesn’t cut power when you turn off your car. This way the detector will automatically turn off after an hour and not drain your car battery.
Run a self test on startup. I typically turn this off to minimize annoying beeps and chirps on startup and to get a quicker, quieter experience.
Reset the detector back to factory defaults. (GMT doesn’t get reset, but everything else does.)
Delete All Mute
Delete all your saved mute memory (GPS lockout) locations.
Tells you what version of the firmware you’re currently running.
Tells you when the redlight camera / speedcamera database you’re using was released.
Highway / City Modes
Not in the menu, but an option nonetheless. Highway gives you full sensitivity on all bands. City settings basically reduces X & K band sensitivity around 30% to reduce the false alerts from door openers. Think of a signal on a scale from 1 to 9 in strength. Using city mode you basically tell it to ignore signals strengths of 1-3 and start alerting when signal reaches level 4.
You can purchase the LRD950 here. You can also get it from Amazon by clicking the link below. 🙂